Topic: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log (Read 114708 times)

frogman3 · « **Reply #75 on:** February 10, 2020, 06:16:48 pm »

Comin on Dave I like the ductin for the hangar
chris

T888 · « **Reply #76 on:** February 10, 2020, 07:17:54 pm »

Thanks Chris,
This is what I hope to have the finished internals to look like.

frogman3 · « **Reply #77 on:** February 11, 2020, 10:30:34 am »

MY god Dave what every thing it will be a labour of love when you finish this build

chris

T888 · « **Reply #78 on:** February 15, 2020, 01:38:04 pm »

Little more progress.

frogman3 · « **Reply #79 on:** March 15, 2020, 12:20:59 pm »

HI Dave anything happening on the build ? as so far looks great

chris

T888 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 15, 2020, 01:24:52 pm »

Hi Chris,
It’s had to be put on hold, as I have family issues that are taking up any free time I have.

However I’m still keeping an eye on yours and others builds.

T888 · « **Reply #81 on:** April 10, 2020, 10:25:46 am »

Hi Gents,Hope your all staying safe in these strange times.I was up early this morning and thought I would get back to Working on the Arleigh Burke , so I’ve started on the forward superstructure.I must say I thought my Japanese Destroyer had some odd shaped superstructure but the Arleigh’s are just as odd.This section of the superstructure is made from 1.5 mm plastic card and I’ve use liquid poly cement to make the joints.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #82 on:** April 10, 2020, 10:55:29 am »

Lovely bit of work there Dave - crisp and clean as well

Regards,
Ray.

T888 · « **Reply #83 on:** April 11, 2020, 06:12:40 pm »

Thanks Stan, been missing your Yamato build.

Spent some time today priming the Fore funnel, also started at attempt at making the vents. ( there are 17 different types of grills and 55 In total) Not to happy with What came out of the mould.

May have to resort to seeing if Scalewarship do a 1/96 PE fret.

frogman3 · « **Reply #84 on:** April 11, 2020, 09:36:49 pm »

HOORAY Dave good to see you back on the build

chis

T888 · « **Reply #85 on:** April 12, 2020, 06:12:21 pm »

Thanks Chris

ballastanksian · « **Reply #86 on:** April 13, 2020, 03:32:26 pm »

How did you mount your vent masters in the mould box? I have had this sort of seepage issue when taping the parts to the bottom which does not matter with items that have sprue blocks on them or lumpy castings where the flaps can be trimmed with a scalpel.

I would glue them to the bottom so there is no gap and then remould. Mould making and casting resin is not the fun part of any model project IMHO

I love that hangar assembly, the detail will be astounding.

T888 · « **Reply #87 on:** April 13, 2020, 03:49:44 pm »

Hi Ian,
Yes I normally glue the master to the bottom of the moulding box, as I was not to happy with these masters, I did not take as much care when gluing these in.

As for the hanger, I’ve stop working on this section as I’ve not resolved how I’m going to move the heli from the flight deck to the hanger.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #88 on:** April 13, 2020, 08:41:13 pm »

With the system the model railway enthusiasts use, the cars and trucks have moving wheels and steerable axles (well on those I have seen!) which would need to be replicated on your helicopter.

The only other method I can think of is an animatronic set up where the helo is on a pin that follows a slot made in the deck underneath of which is the mechanism that moves the model back and forth. Therein would lie wobbliness and possible jerkiness if the model needs to move in anything other than a straight line. These issues could be reduced if the pin has guide rollers.

On the animatronic topic, if the model were mounted on two pins that formed the axles of two roller chain links, then the chain could be driven around a course of sprockets (and if needed, rollers to define course changes) under the deck. I drawded a schematic for you

It's down to cost, complexity and desire on your part :)

T888 · « **Reply #89 on:** April 13, 2020, 09:19:28 pm »

The helo route is From the flight deck to the hanger door is at an angle, then in to the hanger it curves approx 15 to 20 dregs. The two main issue I have are,

1) Supporting the section of track through the section of the flight deck that is removable.
2) location of the motor, rollers or pulleys

I’ve been looking at the railway track way system.

One method I was thing about was to use a brass “U” section fixed under the deck, then cut a slot In the deck . Then fit a “T” sectIon which would be attached the Helo trailer and use a cable system to move the T.But as you say the curve is the sticking point.

T888 · « **Reply #90 on:** April 14, 2020, 02:26:07 pm »

Over the last few days I’ve been working on the fore funnel. I’m still not shore if I like the resin vents

radiojoe · « **Reply #91 on:** April 14, 2020, 07:02:37 pm »

Hi Dave, there may be a way of moving the helo without a slot in the deck there's a system called Magnorail.com. it works by a plastic chain with a magnet in it under the deck/road and a magnet under, in your case, the helo. used a lot on 00gauge rail layouts maybe worth a look.

Stay well Joe.

T888 · « **Reply #92 on:** April 14, 2020, 07:17:54 pm »

Hi joe,

Thanks I’ve looked at Faller system via DCC. At 144.99 euros bit to costly.

Nice to see your posting again.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #93 on:** April 14, 2020, 07:31:58 pm »

The phots are not doing the vents justice but this may not be the vent's fault unless you find it difficult to see the vents with the Mk1 Eyeball.

I am not sure what else you can do that isn't fiddly.

I would have gone for the Faller system if it wasn't for the price. If you knew of several model makers who wanted to do similar things then maybe grouping together to buy one set and share parts out would be more cost effective. Have a go with the T section idea and we can all learn with you.

radiojoe · « **Reply #94 on:** April 14, 2020, 07:44:28 pm »

Hi Dave the Magnorail is not like the Faller system that has a motor in the vehicle, Magnorail moves a small magnet under the deck so a magnet above the deck follows it, still expensive though, but maybe you could find a way of replicating the idea.

Joe

T888 · « **Reply #95 on:** April 14, 2020, 08:08:55 pm »

Hi Ian,

Once I get in the mood to tackle the helo moving , I’ll post My solution as to how I plan to do it.

As for the vents I’ve paint one in black to see if that make a better photo.

Joe, yes I looked at the Mag system that more costly that the faller.

However it’s does opens up an option to look at a magnet in a track drawn along by Either a servo or a motor, Pulley, chain.

Capt Podge · « **Reply #96 on:** April 14, 2020, 08:20:33 pm »

Hi ya Dave, painting the vents black is a bit of an improvement. Maybe a bit of grey or dark silver dry-brushed on the 'bars' of the vent would help to highlight them. I've used that technique on miniature figures to create highlights on armour, weapons etc...
Hope this helps.

Regards,
Ray.

T888 · « **Reply #97 on:** April 15, 2020, 07:34:02 am »

Hi Stan,
Thanks for that I’ll have a look at what you suggest.

ballastanksian · « **Reply #98 on:** April 15, 2020, 05:05:18 pm »

If you use a wide brush then you can create neat graduations of depth dry brushing without the horizontal streaks caused by using a smaller brush.

T888 · « **Reply #99 on:** April 21, 2020, 10:08:54 am »

Thanks Ian.

Little more progress on the forward superstructure, for the phalanx platform I’ve use 1mm thick card. I’m please with the joints so far, as I will not be needing much joint filler, just some Tippex.

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Author Topic: 1/96 scale Arleigh Burke destroyer Build log (Read 114708 times)