Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[B.B]

Hi there, well back after taking 11 mths to construct this Lady, same 1:16 scale build,  the "Southern-Lady" is a stretched version of the previous build the "C-Manda" but less beam for the extra length, her measurements are  52 x 17 ( 18" with sponsons) x 7 inchs ,the bulk of the build is of Tasmanian oak ,Keel is 20 H x 18 W mm , this is a first for me fixing the frames to a board ....  Cheers.....

[Mark T]

Hi Brian I’m looking forward to this build 👍

[derekwarner]

Yes BB....watching on as always..... ........... Derek

[B.B]

Hi guys have plenty of photos lined up  .Spent a few hours at the bench saw cutting up the Tassy oak for the build, the Stringers were cut at 13 x 7 mm the Ribs at 7 x 4 mm ( about the last 1/3 of the ribs were cut at 7 x 2 mm as they were laminated), and the Planking was cut to 12 x 3 mm ( slightly over ).In photo' 3 & 4 the frames were of 1/2 inch ply and set up and screw to the building board.With the pieces I cut the Stringers from weren't long enough ( should have done another trip to Bunnings ) so had to join them doing scarfing joints and also doweled them for extra strength, and the last 2 photo's start of cutting or stepping into the frames for the stringers ..cheers.

[steve mahoney]

Superb woodwork and excellent construction techniques.
I learn a great deal from your post so I’ll be watching with interest.

[B.B]

Morning, some shots of the stringers being installed, also put a short (bit lighter) stringer in the hollow heel, to maintane the same curve as each frame ( we did this on our prawn trawler we built yrs ago, as they tend to crack on the curve of the hollow heel especially when bumping bottom ( over time) while crossing river bars ). Also ribbing her up probably 3/4 of these were steamed and set in a jig for a few hrs or so...Cheers 

[mikelimajuliet]

This looks like a fanatastic and involved build. I'll be keeping a close eye on this.

[Akira]

Beautiful! It is so nice to see that the art of wooden hull building is alive. It appears that you have done this before...LOL.

[B.B]

Thanks guys, Photo 1  nearly ribbed up, a better shot of the jigs set up for setting the ribs after they are steamed ( boiled),photo 2 All ribs finally attached, photo's 3 & 4  The fun begins, placing all the filler blocks between each rib on top deck stringers and also on each stringer across the frames.Photo 5 When you first look at this photo the hull appears to have a wonky look, because of the fillers on each stinger at each frame.The remainder of the photos showing  the planking even though glued I doweled the planking on each frame using 1012 of these little sucker (bamboo)....Cheers 

[Mark T]

It looks like a miniature boat yard     That work is just stunning

[B.B]

Morning guys, photo 1 - how the planking runs around the hull , and showing where the steeler planks will be placed. photo 2 - I found i had to use Merbau for the steelers after snapping a couple of the Tassy oak steelers, found them very brittle if slight change in the grain ( and a few choice words ,which always helps ). Photo 3 - Stern view where another steeler will be placed.
 Photos 4 , 5 & 6 - used a couple Merbau planks around the deck level, bow and stern view of the build. Photos 7 & 8 -  Start of notching the last section of planking in. Photos 9 & 10 - Another case of crappy grain in the Tassy oak, should have taken more care to check each piece before shaping it ( bit like measure 2wice and cut once ......Cheers 

[chum444]

Incredible work.

[coastie]

 

[B.B]

Hi There, next section of the build.Photo 1 - Hull planked to the deck level.Photo 2 & 3 - Cutting the frames away from the base.Photo 4 - Inside view looking forward.Photo 5 ran the motor beds 30 x 20 mm forward (sister keelsons) and they also act as part of the base or frame work for the 2 x 12V sealed lead batteries which will be in parallel .Photo 6 - Aft ends of the beds shaped to accommodate the electric motor. Photos 7 ,8 & 9 - Pre fitting the motor beds and not the most delicate way by using the stick welder (but it works ).Photo  10 - The motor installing is a 12-24 V  Aircon blower motor.....Cheers 

[ballastanksian]

Oh to have the wherewithal to commission a large model of Mary Rose from you Brian! I felt in my waters that you were going to brighten our 'Autumned' hearts with one of your build topics. The workmanship, attention to detail and ability to make miniature timbers look like the real things is phenominal 


While I love the super smooth finish you get with your hull paintwork, I would love to see one of these masterpieces finished in their natural colours, even if you just painted some areas for detail. Your choice of timber and their colours are so beautiful and sadly hidden under paint  Obviously it is your hobby and they are your models, so who am I to push an issue, but if it was just built with ply and balsa then there would be a call for some good paint, but the timbers you use and the way you assemble them (especially with all those 'trennels' !) do deserve showing off.


Any of your builds will win a model boat competition even if you just walked in off the street with one! I look forward to more posts with glee 

[B.B]

Hi  ballastanksian , glad you like her, I enjoy building them, even spending more time or effort needed in areas you will never view again, I suppose it comes down to personal satisfaction, I've been asked numerous times why bother with scarfing joints etc when you cover over them, quiet simple actually as I tell my Wife (sometimes  ) because I can  . With the sailing ship models I take my hat off to the guys with the Knowledge and skill required in that field of rigging etc, bit out of my capabilities , cheers  .

[B.B]

Hi there , well next section of the build Photo 1 -  Showing a better view of her side profile along with her stand ( I pulled an old dresser table apart the bulk of it was hardwood ( spotted gum) which makes a nice but slightly heavy model stand). Photo 2 - Fitting the rudder stock. Photos  3 & 4 -The fitted knees onto the stringers at the transom ( no they aren't grown Tea Tree knees ,bit of Redwood). Photo  5 - Finally got around to making myself a little bevel for those hard to get at places. Photo 6 - Showing most of the running gear the propeller is a 110 mm Raboesch ( re shaped) on a 5 mm s.s shaft , the rudder is made from 3.5 mm brass flat plate, ( I probably should have made the motor base out of the same size brass flat plate ??? instead of gal steel flat bar, it actually come from brackets on a satellite dish on the roof of the house I took down). Photo 7 - Prior to installing her deck beams put extra thicker blocks 62 x 20 mm Tassy oak where her back towing gantries will sit. Photo 8 - Inside her hull receiving a coat of the 2 pot Estapol . Photo's 9 & 10 - Then she received a coat of white undercoat brushed on ( will spray the gloss )  cheers.  .

[B.B]

Morning, well few more photo's of her... Photo's 1 & 2 - I sprayed the top coat  of the inside , I used Dulux metal Sheild Epoxy Enamel ( have used this before with good results). photo 3 - Before spraying I pre fitted the deck beams. Photo's 4 & 5 - Shot of all the deck beams installed and fitting the filler sections between the beams before cutting out the lift out sections. Photo 6 - This model will have a working winch ( out of sight) inside the aft section of the w-house, thus why the tassy oak filler blocks between the deck beams for added strength. Photo 7 - View of the stern section. Cheers .  .

[Tafelspitz]

Nice timberwork there, Brian 

[B.B]

Thank you Tafelspitz  . Next section of the build. Photo 1 - Showing a piece of Spotted Gum planking which came out of a friends 52 ft prawn trawler which was built in 1974, the section of planking was replace as it had some grub (Toredo) in it, the section I used looked as good as the day it went into the boat, I made all the bollard post from it a bow and stern bollard and 4 smaller side bollards. Photo's 2 , 3  & 4 - Pre fitting the stern centre bollard, slotting the base into the horn timber. Photo's 5 , 6  & 7 - Some more shots of her deck beams and lift out sections finished. Photo's 8 , 9  & 10 - The first of 3 undercoats she recieved , cheers    .

[Mark T]

It seems that you get some really nice species and a wide variety of wood in Australia.  I bet it dries out very naturally too in your warm environment keeping it stable for model making.  I have to buy imported hard woods for my builds and they can be quite expensive especially of you make mistakes  - not that I'm jealous of course 


That hull looks lovely its almost a shame to paint it - looking forward to the next update 

[chum444]

Beautiful! It is so nice to see that the art of wooden hull building is alive. It appears that you have done this before...LOL.

Ah ha! Another familiar builder.

[dreadnought72]

THIS IS LOVELY 


Andy

[Capt Podge]

If I could do that kind of woodwork I would consign most of my plasticard to the waste bin. Beautiful craftsmanship B.B.


Regards,
Ray.

[ballastanksian]

I agree Captain.


That bow section is pure art Brian as (Ok all of her is obviously) are the knees. I think we can forgive you for not using grown knees just this once.I like how you are using some old wood and recycling it in your projects.