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Author Topic: Printing the Planks  (Read 4154 times)

Tug-Kenny RIP

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Printing the Planks
« on: March 17, 2011, 08:04:20 pm »


Does anyone know who supplies or makes the printed planking you see in model kits ?

I know I can design the strips on the computer but I have no way printing them onto a wooden background.

Here is a picture of some scrap sheets to give you an idea of what I'm after.  Hope you can help.

Cheers

Ken

 
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Yarpie

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #1 on: March 17, 2011, 08:18:48 pm »

Don't know if anybody does it to order Ken, but I would imagine suppliers such as Deans or Fleetscale would have it done somehow.

However, it's possible to do it yourself with a little pre-planning, confidence and a steady hand/ruler.

See here:

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=27664.0

See posts #7 and #8.

The process is quicker than laying the planks individually, and can look fairly convincing. :-))
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #2 on: March 17, 2011, 08:32:14 pm »

Deans actually supply sheets of wooden planking which can be stuck down to a sub deck - see their website.

As far as DIY is concerned, print the planking on suitably coloured heavy artist's paper of the correct shade (parchment or light straw colour). Then put a coat of polyurethane varnish on to your sub deck and press the paper down on to it while wet. Then apply a couple of coats of varnish over the top and the whole thing bonds together.

Colin
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #3 on: March 17, 2011, 08:42:36 pm »


I must admit that the work you did was great, Yarpie.   :-))

I have a few questions which bother me.  I had considered this but my scale model is 1:175 and the lines are rather close  (can't remember the distance at the moment but probably around 2mm) so therefore the thickness of the line has to be fine.

The second problem was one of skill.  I do admire your work but feel I might make a mistake and ruin the whole board. I am building the Titanic and she is over 5 foot long and planked all over 3 decks high.

You say you used indelible ink and didn't mention the tool to apply it with. I had considered a Biro pen but this is probably a bit thick.

I can draw the pattern out on my computer and wondered if a commercial print shop would
 mind running very thin wood through their machine.  ( a flat bed copier maybe ? )



Colin.  Thanks for that idea. I really would like a wooden deck, but if all else fails, I might try it for effect.   :-))   I'll have a look around commercial sites and see what's available.

Thanks so far

Ken




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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #4 on: March 17, 2011, 08:57:08 pm »

Quote
I really would like a wooden deck

Paper is wood - just a bit pulped..... %)

Colin
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Roadrunner

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2011, 09:05:39 pm »

Although nothing wrong with doing planking with a pen, its basically the same as the way the planks are lazer printed, only one issues if u mess up and slip you will have a mark or line that shouldn't be there, this is either extremely difficult to remove or worse case results in starting again and scrapping the piece.

I have a method that works quite well for me ( no photo's as yet, but keep watch on my Komet Build Log it will be demonstrated there as the printed deck sucks and will spoil the models finish, its a nice model shame to spoil it with a printed deck)

I have a Router part for my dremel and a 1mm engraving bit, simple using the router guide which can be set for distances as deep as 300mm (so i can cover most deck sizes from either port or starboard,) and run the router down the edge of the deck and engrave a groove down the deck, ( the depth is set by the router parts depth gauge) move the router in by the thickness of the plank and repeat process until jobs done.

This will work for any curves and straight line parts, but it won't do complex patterns or 'cut in's'

Now to get your 'caulking' effect my method (one of my favorites) is to use black cotton thread and pva glue, run a very thin bead of glue down each grove ( i use a paint brush) now take the black cotton and slowly push it into the groove,( don't have to keep the cotton taught so don't worry)

Once all the groves are done let the deck dry for a day or so, then sand the deck down start with 120 grit and work your way to a smooth finish.

You can now either Stain the deck ( this will not effect the cotton) and varnish, or oil it and use some polishing wax to protect the surface or give a particular finish .

Anyway this is one method i like using other then that its the old fashioned way... single planks my next favorite method.

Hope it helps Kenny   :-))
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2011, 09:08:59 pm »

Paper is wood - just a bit pulped..... %)

Colin


I'm known for adding water to my boats.     O0

I went over to Deans site and their planks seem a little wide.  I remember Model Slipway sold me some extra wood sheets all marked nicely, to replace some I'd damaged on the the AZIZ and have a few off-cuts  (see picture) but this scale is 1:48.  I could try drawing three more extra planks in between their marks but that seems a recipe for disaster.  :}



Ken
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2011, 09:15:07 pm »

Although nothing wrong with doing planking with a pen, its basically the same as the way the planks are lazer printed, only one issues if u mess up and slip you will have a mark or line that shouldn't be there, this is either extremely difficult to remove or worse case results in starting again and scrapping the piece.




Thanks roadrunner. So much to consider now. Thank you for the 'How to' and very interesting approach.  The scale is really quite small so caulking had not been considered, but who knows, I might have a go myself.

I am going to draw the actual size on the computer and see what all those parallel lines really look like.   %)

Ken

 
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2011, 09:15:54 pm »

At the scale Ken is working to I don't think that 'engraving' and filling in the 'caulking' is a practical option. The most important thing is neatness so that the 'planking' blends into the background. Here is an example of printed planking on coloured cartridge paper at 1:150 scale - Ken's will be even smaller! I doubt whether you will get a better effect. Printing directly on to wood has the disadvantage that the grain pattern across the planks will still be visible. Using paper avoids that problem and at these small scales the important factors are colour, neat lines and a homogeneous (no grain) surface.

Colin
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Roadrunner

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2011, 09:25:21 pm »

NO one told me the scale....

Going by Ken's Normal work i assumed it was around the 1:32 scale ....

Yeah my method would be best used around 1:32 or on models that have 4-5-6mm plank spacings.

Well at least you learn't something new perhaps something to try on your next build Ken  ;)
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2011, 09:29:52 pm »


47 seconds later Colin has a good solution.

That really is a superb job. I'll go along with the wood showing through. Never thought of that.

Titanic's planks are 5 inches in 1912 money so any maths 'grads' out there care to confirm the scale measurement size we are thinking about.  ?   I thought around 4mm wide.

 (sorry Roadrunner.  We are dealing with a pensioner with glasses here   ;) )

Ken

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carlmt

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #11 on: March 17, 2011, 09:38:24 pm »

0.725714285mm

127 (actual plank width / 175 (scale)

Ken - if you used 4mm then the real plank would be 4 x 175 (scale) = 700mm = 27.5inches !!!!

The danger of printing to the scale width of 0.73 (rounded up) is that the line would need to be very thin not to blend into each other.....

Carl

Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #12 on: March 17, 2011, 09:46:37 pm »

My printing is due to the good offices of Dicky D's wife who produced an Excel Spreadsheet to produce the planking so the credit is all hers and I am very grateful to her. I then ran it through the copy function in my all in one printer, adjusting the % reproduction to get the spacing I wanted and I think it looks great. If you want you could introduce the butts by drawing across with a thin pencil but at this scale I don't really think it is necessary.

Ken, if you want the spreadsheet PM me your email and I will send it to you. I'm sure Mrs DD won't mind. Any artist's shop will sell you the thick coloured paper. Go for a shade lighter than what you actually want as the varnish will darken it slightly. You can experiment with ordinary paper until you get the spacing you want before printingt onto the expensive stuff. The genius of Mrs DD's program is that the caulking lines are not too prominent. Try it and see!

Colin
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #13 on: March 17, 2011, 10:03:51 pm »

Thank you Colin.  I was so impressed with your picture that I've been away from the club and trying out my Excel program.

Here is my first attempt with my best finger shown to give my scale of 2.5mm planks on white paper.  You gotta admit it came out rather stunning.  Thank you for the idea.   :-)) :-))

Ken

ps   Just had another thought.  Maybe I can introduce the plank end of lengths on the master Excel  !!
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2011, 10:36:15 pm »

Ken, you need to get down to less than 1mm for your Titanic. If Excel can't manage it then the reduction facility on the copier should do it.

This is definitely the best way to do it though. On a model, planking is a 'background' so it just needs to look right without being obtrusive. It's all the fittings attached to it which catch the eye. Even if it is slightly out of scale the neatness will rectify any visual problems.

Colin
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Talisman

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #15 on: March 18, 2011, 01:52:19 am »

Hi Ken,
I had a quick play while waiting for some glue to go off so not adjusted the machine, clamped the piece etc
Heres a look at what i came up with -
Lasered on black styrene, it was the first piece of material that came to hand. Maybe run some fine steel wool over it for grain effect, just a thought.

With a bit of adjustment I'm sure it would look better.

Calliper set at 5mm to give idea of sizes - breaks in planks needs looking at. ~(power settings of machine, drawing etc...)
Like i say a very quick job so a bit rough ...
Regards,
Kim
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #16 on: March 18, 2011, 09:30:39 am »

Ingenious, but presumably you have to get hold of deck coloured styrene which would still look like the plastic it is. If it is printed or etched then painting would probably lose the detail. At this small scale you would never see grain, just the caulking lines and maybe,very faintly, the butt joints.

Colin
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #17 on: March 18, 2011, 10:09:17 am »

Ken, you need to get down to less than 1mm for your Titanic. If Excel can't manage it then the reduction facility on the copier should do it.
Colin

Colin
Continued with the project this morning and managed to get Excel lines down to 1mm.  See photo.

Any smaller would be ridiculous as you could not define the lines from a distance.  All I need now is some coloured paper  (or material)  Any suggestions ?


Hi Kim
Nice to hear from you.  Thank you for your efforts. I think the painting afterwards would start to hide the grooves and my painting is not up to much, but very clever Laser work anyway.  Might use this idea on other projects.  Cheers


This is a very HOT topic.   O0   Perhaps I could go into production for scratch builders and produce imitation planking in all widths and sizes. ?   :D

Pity my printer has decided not to print black any more because the colour ink has run out. I feel the use a hammer coming on. %)

ken

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Roadrunner

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #18 on: March 18, 2011, 11:18:28 am »

Ken pop into an Art shop and pick up some cream colored card or similar, and run that through the printer, once varnished it should give you the right plank color tone and look the job.

although right now i still have use of my fingers so i have no issues with the time consuming old fashioned way of planking, even i am learning a few new things & I have to agree this is becoming a hot topic with many methods of planking being explained or demonstrated. its still missing a few methods but think it may be best to keep to your subject and scale, possible get Martin to start a new Thread in the ''how to section''
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Colin Bishop

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #19 on: March 18, 2011, 01:36:27 pm »

The method you use will depend upon the scale. At 1:48th scale for example, individual planks probably look best, at the much smaller scales ink on wood or paper is the traditional method but, as somebody has already pointed out, get one line wrong or smudged or blotted and the piece is ruined. Using a computer will give you a very neat effect and inkjets will print fine on coloured paper or thin card. Where you can lose out is if you need to put margin planking or 'frames' around items of deck machinery etc. which introduces complications as you have to do some serious computer draughting. A compromise might be the do the 'frames' manually using pencil or ink to match the computerised printout on thin paper and then paste it on top. By the time you have varnished everything it should blend in, especially as the edge around the superimposed piece will be a caulking line anyway.

Colin
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Talisman

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #20 on: March 18, 2011, 02:47:08 pm »

Hi All,
I had a quick go at painting and some box wood at lunchtime.
The camera doesnt really do it justice but was excellent at capturing the dust in my painting lol - I only had grey spray paint to hand.
I have used boxwood veneer for the wood etching-

Ken, if it helps i will send an a5 sample to you just let me know where to send it.
Regards,
Kim
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #21 on: March 18, 2011, 05:35:40 pm »


That does look nice, Kim.  How thick is the box wood.  Would it bend through a printer, do you think. ? 

I watered down some Tamiya paint today and wash painted my paper version and it looked a bit rough. I found that the ink of the lines was running across, so that idea is out of the window.  Obviously the colour would have to be in the material before the lines are drawn on.

I went down town to see the cards and colours on display and found nothing in the very light brown shade.  Also they didn't have cream colour card only brilliant white.  So that one is pending.

As you are making a good job of manufacture Kim, I hand over the production idea to you. I'm sure there is a market especially if it real wood in strip form. Saves all that individual work. Maybe you could offer all scales in sheet form. They're  bound to be snapped up.   O0

As Colin points out, the edging would be difficult to fabricate as it would be model dependant.  On mine it doesn't matter too much as it's mainly a straight ship.

The size of plank for 1:175 looks fine at 2mm.  When I place my little people on them it's about as long as their shoes. This makes the original plank 10 inches wide but at this scale it would confuse a Rivet counter. ;)

Pm on it's way.

Ken



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Talisman

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #22 on: March 18, 2011, 08:20:35 pm »

Hi Ken, got your pm, thanks.
I will be busy this weekend but will get your sample together and out on Monday.
I have used 0.6mm thick veneer, It might go through a printer that can accept thicker materials but would depend on the radius of the curve and whether the grain could take the 'bend' i guess.
I have been busy most of this week doing decks for our own boats but at 1:48 & 1:32 they have been a little easier ... I just couldn't resist the challenge of such a small scale.
Speak soon,
Kim

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Yarpie

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #23 on: March 18, 2011, 08:28:46 pm »

Well done Kim.  You seem to have found the solution. :-))

It will be interesting to see the application if Ken would keep us visually up to date. ;)
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Tug-Kenny RIP

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Re: Printing the Planks
« Reply #24 on: March 18, 2011, 08:44:47 pm »



Thank you Kim. Much appreciated.

I will of course update the log as this subject is close to all our hearts.   I do like the statement under your letter, Yarpie .  There is of course an 'Amateur' building this one so hopefully it wont sink.  %)

Ken
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