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[ChrisF]

Bob

Of the wooden hulled race boats Huntress, Huntsman 28 and Huntsman 31 had some of them with painted decks, especially the Ford supported ones.

There was only 4 or 5 Swordsman race boats (none being Ford supported I think). One definitely had a painted deck (pale blue) but the superstructure was a bespoke design as only the hull was supplied by Fairey. There was another race boat designed by Fairey but with a different superstructure and two which looked pretty standard.

I can't find any good/clear pictures but of the standard ones there is one called Sou Too which looks as though it has a planked bow area and painted side decks, in a dark colour.

Chris

[madwelshman]

Chris, Sou Too #636, a 1972 Swordsman was my Uncles boat from new. She replaced an aft cabin H31 called Sou and he did race her a few times.
He kept her moored on a mooring on the Cleddau river. My Dad and his brother used to take Sou Too and Sou before her, back to Faireys for servicing. A good run, all the way from Pembrokeshire down to the Hamble river.


I only have one picture of Sou Too and it's a very faded/discoloured one, from many years of being on the wall.
Sou was replaced before I was born and I didn't get to see her until a few years ago, whilst going into the harbour at the Isle of Wight, she was in the marina at East Cowes.

[ChrisF]

Hi Will

Great that you have some family history with a couple of Faireys' finest. Your uncle must have ben pretty well off.

Your photos of Sou Too are better than the one I found and the third one down would suggest that the whole of the deck is planked rather than painted as in my photo.

All good stuff.

We had a cruiser in the family some years ago which we had moored at a house on the Avon, near Pershore, which I used to take down onto the Severn - happy days. Unfortunately we sold them when my father died. Wish we'd still got them now that I've retired.

A sister and brother have narrow boats but they aren't really my cup of tea.

Chris

[madwelshman]

Chris,


My Uncle has a couple of garages, Renault dealerships back in the 60's and 70's, so I guess he was doing ok for himself, being able to buy two new Faireys.
Sou Too has since been renamed, Slipstream of Beulieu I believe she is called now.


The deck does appear to be varnished planks rather than painted. I guess the race boats were painted for extra protection and ease of upkeep, where as Sou Too, was still used mainly for pleasure and occasionally raced, so a varnished deck would be more in keeping.
Apparently, Sout Too was quite noisy apparently (I was only 2 when he bought her and don't remember)and had straight through exhausts. My Dad says she sounded lovely as the revs climbed, the turbos spooled up as she accelerated up onto the plane.


I wish I had been a little older and could remember her.


Apparently the self steering/autopilot used to keep me amused. My parents would sit me at the helm and I would watch the wheel turn all by itself, with no human input.


Will

[ChrisF]

Hi Will

I should say he was doing Ok for himself! Faireys were very expensive in those days, you could buy a nice house for the same outlay!

Yes, there were basically two types of race boats, those specifically prepared for racing like the Ford backed boats and certainly for the Huntsman 31 Sport race boats having an extra layer in the hull construction for extra strength and then there's the boats bought primarily for pleasure and used for the occasional race and therefore having varnished decks.

Chris

[zooma]

Thanks for sharing your family pictures with us Will - it must have been nice to have some close wealthy family members who were able to give you some posh powerboat rides when you were younger, and to leave you with some fond memories that you will be able to treasure forever.

Seeing your uncles Huntsman (still with its same original name) when on a trip to the Isle of Wight must have been an exciting find, and knowing that the current name of Sou Too is now "Slipstream of Beulieu" will allow you to keep track of the Swordsman in the future too!

I think you should add a Swordsman to your model boat collection to replicate your family fleet in miniature!

Stay safe!

Bob.

[madwelshman]

Unfortunately, I don't remember either Sou or Sou Too at all. I only have stories that my parents have told me of being out on Sou Too (I wasn't even born when my Uncle had Sou  )


Yes, seeing Sue for the 1st time ever and for it to be for real, not a picture, was fantastic.


Sou Too, the only picture I actually own of her is the 1st, faded one. The other pictures and the ones of Sou, are internet ones.
Only recently did I learn of the name change of Sou Too. As you say, at least that gives me more chance of keeping track of her.


As you know, I have plans to build a Swordsman, so will definitely be attempting that one day, after I have done something with the ones I already have.  Will definitely have the twin antenna and #636 though.


Will

[zooma]

Does anyone know if the Swordsman that were raced had a fabric covered deck to give some level of grip on the painted deck surfaces?

I think this is the case (?) and I have decided to give my own Swordsman (built from a copy of the original Aerokits plan) a painted deck to replicate the colours of my first Swordsman model that I raced in the off-shore races in the 1960's.

Adding a slight texture by laminating a fine cloth (like one of the wife's petticoats) onto the deck would not be difficult (the hardest part would be getting hold of a "spare" petticoat) and would give the required effect. 

[mrzippy]

Hi Guys, In the 1960's/70's, before epoxy glass arrived in the model boating world, we covered decks on Suzie Q's and Cachalot's with doped on nylon,
followed by a coat of Humbrol - the go-too method of the period.
Nylon fabric of the type used by aeromodelers for covering wings on control line model aircraft etc, still used and available today,
recently bought a couple of metres from Flair Model Products (white, red, yellow, orange or blue).
Depending on how much paint was applied, the fabric weave grinned through - similar effect to what you are trying to achieve.

Todays fine weave glass cloth would give the same effect with a single light coat of epoxy rollered on,
(the stage at which you would normally add a second coat to fill the cloths weave),
lots of different weights of glass cloth available to experimentation, followed by a whiff of Halfrauds aerosol.

Paul.

[Fuse Wire]

In about 1970, as a young man in my mid twenties, I began making the AeroKits, Fairey Marine, Swordsman. After a month or two, work got in the way, it remained unfinished, and I forgot all about it. About this time last year, a friend found it in his garage and suggested I might like to finish it in lockdown. After 50 years storage it looked rather sad!

A lot has changed in 50 years and It was a certainly a big learning curve. But after a year’s work I’ve just finished it.

As you will gather from the transom photograph, I live in Bournville. The Model Yacht and Boat Club is about a mile away, and has an excellent, fully restored, model boat pond. As soon as this wretched lockdown in over, LizzyB will be launched with due ceremony for the very first time.

If people are interested, I will post more information including: Motor, electronics, circuit diagram, paint and transfers, and mechanical components.

The link shows photos of my Swordsman:  [size=78%]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jIU8JpIFY3tLzKOhOc6ARQVZgtiqc_DQ/view[/size][/font][/size]

[zooma]

Hi Guys, In the 1960's/70's, before epoxy glass arrived in the model boating world, we covered decks on Suzie Q's and Cachalot's with doped on nylon,
followed by a coat of Humbrol - the go-too method of the period.
Nylon fabric of the type used by aeromodelers for covering wings on control line model aircraft etc, still used and available today,
recently bought a couple of metres from Flair Model Products (white, red, yellow, orange or blue).
Depending on how much paint was applied, the fabric weave grinned through - similar effect to what you are trying to achieve.

Todays fine weave glass cloth would give the same effect with a single light coat of epoxy rollered on,
(the stage at which you would normally add a second coat to fill the cloths weave),
lots of different weights of glass cloth available to experimentation, followed by a whiff of Halfrauds aerosol.

Paul.

Hi Paul,

I remember those days of trying to find thin silk cloth (or more probably cheap synthetic "nylon" copies) to use with dope to cover The Nobbler and other such control line stunt aircraft with!

When I built my first Suzie Q my pal built the Catchalot so we had both of those two classic Vic Smeed designs running together in our club (along with the Piranha) at the time and the cloth covering method we used then is what gave me the idea of replicating the "non-slip" deck covering on my Swordsman.

The only use we had for glass fibre in those days was for strengthening the inside of the hull with chopped glass mat and for making repairs that we could then "fine finish" with Plastic Padding before the final rubbing down prior to painting.

Humbrol enamel paint was the only way to go back then (some rebels discovered Japlac)......along with a modelling paintbrush that was far too small for the job and took ages to finish!

Happy days!

Bob.

[zooma]

In about 1970, as a young man in my mid twenties, I began making the AeroKits, Fairey Marine, Swordsman. After a month or two, work got in the way, it remained unfinished, and I forgot all about it. About this time last year, a friend found it in his garage and suggested I might like to finish it in lockdown. After 50 years storage it looked rather sad!

A lot has changed in 50 years and It was a certainly a big learning curve. But after a year’s work I’ve just finished it.

As you will gather from the transom photograph, I live in Bournville. The Model Yacht and Boat Club is about a mile away, and has an excellent, fully restored, model boat pond. As soon as this wretched lockdown in over, LizzyB will be launched with due ceremony for the very first time.

If people are interested, I will post more information including: Motor, electronics, circuit diagram, paint and transfers, and mechanical components.

The link shows photos of my Swordsman:  [size=78%]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jIU8JpIFY3tLzKOhOc6ARQVZgtiqc_DQ/view[/size]

That is a really nice story (and a good looking Aerokits Swordsman) - thanks for sharing it with us!

All of the extra info you mention would be good to read too!

Bob.

[Fuse Wire]

That is a really nice story (and a good looking Aerokits Swordsman) - thanks for sharing it with us!

All of the extra info you mention would be good to read too!

Bob.

Hello Bob
[/size]
[/size]That was my very first message on Model Boat Mayhem, and you were the very first to reply - thank you for those kind words. I will post some detailed information in the next couple of days, including: Motor, electronics, circuit diagram, paint and transfers, and mechanical components. [/size]

[Stuw]

Here’s another “yes please” from me. Having only joined this forum a few months ago, I have found such a wealth of useful information, great pictures and helpful posters. I’m a Lesro fan and am fast being turned to Faireys having read about and seen them on here.


Your Swordsman looks so good, especially when looking at the state it was in to start with. I haven’t seen the sort of electronics that you have included before but would always be interested to read about them.


From memory the first 10 posts take a while with all the questions to make sure you are really keen to stay with it, but after that it’s much easier.


Interested to know what you used for the windscreen material. And how you created that subtle Arrow style rubbing strip.....


Welcome!

[Fuse Wire]

Several people have asked me to provide more in formation on LizzyB, Swordsman, so here it is, including: Motor, electronics, circuit diagram, paint and transfers, and mechanical components:

The circuit diagram shows the various electronic modules and their specification, so no need to list them again. The high current wiring is red and black as usual, and so is the lamp wiring. Signal wiring colours are R = red, B = Black, W = white, and Br = brown. These colours vary between manufacturers.

Futaba radio TX T2HR, RX R202GF, 2.4GHz FHSS 2HR, and servo is a Futaba S3003.

Motor coupling: CNC5 Kali coupling M8 thread to 5mm plain plus a home-made M8 to M4 adaptor - Prestwich Model Boats. Note: Huco type couplings are rated up to 1000rpm, and there are reports of breakages penetrating hulls! The CNC5 coupling has a considerably higher capacity both torque and revs. - probably in excess of 20,000rpm.

Motor has a home-made water-cooled mount.

ESC brushless speed control - ZTW Shark Marine 70A with BEC and water cooled.

Windscreen - 2mm polycarbonate. Very tough, but can be bent cold. Much stranger than Perspex. Central support, aluminium. Hame made.

Navigation lights - red, green, and white 12V, 20mA LED. Instrumentation lamps - 12V, 20mA LED.

Motor isolation switch (normally used on motor bike). 60V DC, 100A continuous current, max current 300A

All fixings - stainless steel

Current propeller - 2 blade, X series, G.F. M4, 45mm diameter. Depending on pond trials, I also have 40mm and 50mm diameter.

Paintwork - All paint solvent based. Inside - I coat primer and one coat white under coat. Outside - One coat primer, one coat white undercoat, one coat gloss finishing - white for hull and cabin roofs. Ultramarine blue - transom and cabin sides. Paint by Johnstons Decorating Centre.

Deck finish - LF Teak Stain, one part stain to three parts thinners. Then, four coats of Ronseal Gloss Yacht Varnish.

Transfers - Transom lettering and logo - medium yellow, plotter cut vinyl. Cabin sides Swordsman logo - white on transparent backing. Designed by me and supplied by Stickers International.

General - I'm not one for sticking sticky to scale. For example: I decided not to fit an eye-pocking-out mast. I have not fitted hand rails to the cabin roof or around the deck, because they easily get broken. And i have purposely not fitted a pretend steering wheel, but just fitted a motor isolator switch, indicator lamps to show the state of the electronics, and an audio visual alarm for when the battery starts to go low.

That's about all I can think of at the moment. No doubt more things will come to mind. Please let me know if there is anything else I can tell you about LizzyB.

Kind regards - Fuse Wire

[RST]

Sorry but just to say 1,000rpm is a little unfair of a huco coupling. Many of us use them ansolutely fine up to 8-10,000 rpm (ish) absolutely fine.  I've never heard one breaking a hull at 1,000 -they wouldn't be much use!

[zooma]

Thanks for the extra information Fuse Wire.

I really like the oblong rear window frame on the rear side of the hull - sadly window frames of this shape are no longer commercially available.  Did you make yours, or were you lucky enough to have bought one when they were still made?

I see on your wiring diagram that you are using a Tornado 4260 -500KV out-runner and that you are useing a 4mm prop shaft.   Let us know how well it goes when you have had a chance to run it.

Stay safe!

Bob.

[Fuse Wire]

Here’s another “yes please” from me. Having only joined this forum a few months ago, I have found such a wealth of useful information, great pictures and helpful posters. I’m a Lesro fan and am fast being turned to Faireys having read about and seen them on here.


Your Swordsman looks so good, especially when looking at the state it was in to start with. I haven’t seen the sort of electronics that you have included before but would always be interested to read about them.


From memory the first 10 posts take a while with all the questions to make sure you are really keen to stay with it, but after that it’s much easier.


Interested to know what you used for the windscreen material. And how you created that subtle Arrow style rubbing strip.....


Welcome!

Hello Stuw

You asked me how to make the Arrow Style Rubbing strip. I looked a a lot of picture of real Swordsman to get the shape and size right. Then I made a brass template of the feather end and one of the pointed end. Then i used the templates to make two of each in wood, leaving a a short straight length. I tapered the straight length. Then I made two strips of parallel wood - the section in the middle, I taped the end so they matched the tapers of the feather ends and pointed ends, and glued them together.

I marked the position on the hull (you don't want wobbly strips!), and I glue them in place with the help of dressmaking pins.

It's a bit tricky, but easier than making and fitting splash rails.

Kind regards - Fuse Wire

[Fuse Wire]

Thanks for the extra information Fuse Wire.

I really like the oblong rear window frame on the rear side of the hull - sadly window frames of this shape are no longer commercially available.  Did you make yours, or were you lucky enough to have bought one when they were still made?

I see on your wiring diagram that you are using a Tornado 4260 -500KV out-runner and that you are useing a 4mm prop shaft.   Let us know how well it goes when you have had a chance to run it.

Stay safe!

Bob.

Hello Bob


I made the rear window frame, and yes, they are glazed. I may put lights in the rear cockpit.


I have no idea if the motor will be ok. I read a post (may have been Mayham) that someone was using them successfully in larger boats and that it was his motor of choice. I rather liked the idea of relatively high power 900W and low speed 500KV (presumably high torque). It is an outrunner. Seems a bit silly to go for high revs and then have to introduce a gearbox to get the torque.


Kind regards - Fuse Wire

[Stuw]

Thanks Fuse Wire. It looks a very tidy setup. If I may ask some more brief questions?


1. What is the vertical “tube” at the end of the Rx aerial in the rear compartment?


2. I’m assuming the rudder is aligned in the photo but the control rod and linkages are offset from a 90 degree position. Is there a reason this is done that gives benefit?


3. Is the paint brushed or sprayed? Finish looks great.


Apologies to all if these are obvious questions.

[Fuse Wire]

Thanks Fuse Wire. It looks a very tidy setup. If I may ask some more brief questions?


1. What is the vertical “tube” at the end of the Rx aerial in the rear compartment?


2. I’m assuming the rudder is aligned in the photo but the control rod and linkages are offset from a 90 degree position. Is there a reason this is done that gives benefit?


3. Is the paint brushed or sprayed? Finish looks great.


Apologies to all if these are obvious questions.

Hello Stuw


1  There are two bits of red wire covering, one at each end of the active end of the aerial. These serve merely to hold the active end of the aerial (last 28.8mm) in place in the white wooden block stuck to the bulkhead. The receiver and aerial are place away from electrically noisy components, like the motor and ESC. The aerial is mounted vertically and above the waterline to maximise the Tx, Rx range. See attached: OpenTX University - Introduction to Antennas.


2  The rudder is shown positioned straight, and the servo is shown positioned in the mid position with the Tx stick vertical. The rudder tiller arm and servo arm arm are parallel,l so that at the extreme left and right of the TX stick the rudder moves equal angles left and right (well, nearly). Actually, the servo arm is a bit shorter than the tiller, to make the rudder turn an optimum maximum of +/-33 degrees. The turning symmetry and rudder sensitivity can of course be adjusted on the Tx. Actually, I would have preferred to have mounted the servo further from the rudder pivot, making the four bar chain linkage response more ideal. However, in practice, I don't think it will make a scrap of difference. So, in answer to you question: The layout is merely due to space restrictions.


3  Re: painting: You have just payed me the greatest complement! Ever since I was a little boy of 6 or 7 (some 70 years ago!), I have always been totally dissatisfied by my finish - and, frankly, I still am. The paint, staining, and varnishing of LizzyB are all brushed. The secret is of course in the preparation, clean bushes and paint, and allowing plenty of time. I always vacuum off any dust, and I have recently discovered 'Tack Cloth', which helps. I delighted to say we are about to become grandparents for the first time. So, making a rocking horse is priority, rather than model boats. I'm hoping this will be my great opportunity to persuade my wife - I just cannot live with out a a compressor and spray outfit any longer.


Kind regards - Fuse Wire


http://open-txu.org/home/continuing-education/introduction-to-antennas/
   

[Stuw]

Fuse Wire:

Thanks for all that. I am probably the only one, but hadn’t realised the importance of parallel aerials. No problem so far as I haven’t controlled a model yet (long story but very slow Lesro Javelin restoration on another thread).


I’ve gone for a rattle can metallic planned paint scheme for first Javelin but may consider brush for others!



Bob:


Regarding the oval shaped window frame, I’ve trawled the web and come up with oval brass eyelets that might do the trick but probably not the right size/profile? There are many different colours/sizes/quality available.


For example - [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202145757879[/size]


Most seem to come in bags of 50 though!!

Edited: to remove my attempt at a joke! Although too late you’ve quoted me..

[zooma]

Bob:


Regarding the oval shaped window frame, I’ve trawled the web and come up with oval brass eyelets that might do the trick but probably not the right size/profile? There are many different colours/sizes/quality available.


For example - [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202145757879[/size]


Most seem to come in bags of 50 though!!

I will check my Swordsman plans and see if there is a size close enough to use.

Being made of brass they have some "potential".

Thanks for the link Stuw.

Bob.

[Fuse Wire]

Fuse Wire:

Thanks for all that. I could of course undo my praise by saying it’s the low res pictures that make the finish look good! (Seriously only joking!)


Bob:


Regarding the oval shaped window frame, I’ve trawled the web and come up with oval brass eyelets that might do the trick but probably not the right size/profile? There are many different colours/sizes/quality available.


For example - [size=78%]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202145757879[/size]


Most seem to come in bags of 50 though!!

How interesting. Didn't know such things existed. I definitely prefer to buy things rather than having to make them.


You're right - Low res. pictures hide a multitude of sins....


Kind regards - Fuse Wire

[Stuw]

I will check my Swordsman plans and see if there is a size close enough to use.

Being made of brass they have some "potential".

Thanks for the link Stuw.

Bob.

Once you know the sort of size you need, I don’t mind helping to search. There are many many options out there..