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[gregk9]

Finally, after carrying out some modifications to the hull, it is reeady again for painting.
I have decided to paint the white first, then follow in a couple of days [drying time] with the blue upper band.
Paint was applied using aerosol cans, Halfords "Appliance white", using the "dust coat/ allow to dry, followed by several light coats, giving sufficient time periods between coats to allow the solvent to clear from the paint before applying a further coat.

Pictures are of the hull after removal of the main layer of masking, note the main masking line of "tamaiya" masking will remain untill paint is fully dry to prevent "paint tear".








The paintwork will be cut and polished once both colours have had sufficient time to dry fully.
But looking at the result so far, its not going to need much !

[gregk9]

I have sorted a few minor items out today, making up the inner liner for one of the forward lockers, adding the partitions and topping with some plastruct tubing, cut along its length, as you would with water pipe insulation, to protect the sharp edge of the partition tops.

I have now sanded down the plastic rod/s I used to simulate the engine cover bolt heads, so now they are a more realistic height. I have also made up the small cover plates for the deck hatch springs to sit in, to prevent them from rotating when the hatches are opened/closed.
I have also made up the basic design of the Df aerial, still needs a little detailling, but its "getting there!
One last item for today was to make up a couple of flying bridge screen hinge brackets, so the screen finally has some location for me to work from.

[gregk9]

SO, finally got to apply the Blue paint to the hull now. I have to say it went well and no problems, apart from the masking tape detaching itself on the last coat, so a bit of blue "overspray" sneaked through and attached itself to the white bow sides, but bit of "T" cut will sort that out once fully dry.

[stoney]

 Coming on a treat Gregg 

 Paul

[gregk9]

Thanks Paul !

I meant to add, the "wierd finish" you can see in the last picture is actually the reflection of the radiator on the wall ! i had to look at it several times before finding the reason of what it was [ha ha].

i am currently cutting and polishing the hull, "by hand", im not going to risk a mechanically driven polisher, it would be just my luck to burn the paint.

i have flatted it with 1200 wet/dry paper, then buffing up with some G3 abrhasive polish, before finishing with T cut. Once I am happy with the result, I will spray the hull with laquer to set the colours and prevent/reduce the risk of scratches.

THEN

i can see about installing the drivetrain!

One thing I will add now. I am going to opt for 14.8v lipo battery sticks, one for each 900 motor. I think they should provide adequate power backup a bit better than ordinary sub c cell nimh 12v pack.  Again thinking on weight, so keeping to a minimum.

[gregk9]

Not actually done any work on the Mersey today, but was collecting "bits" for it, as I'd placed an order with "Mac's Mouldings" and decided to collect from the International Model Boat Show. well, i wanted to go to the show anyway, so why not advance order the bits and pick up whilst there, at least i saved on postage [ha ha].

So I now have the interior cabin seats, I admit they are not "correct pattern" for a Mersey, but look similar and if i install minus the seat bases supplied with them, and simply make up the lockets they sit on instead, they should do the trick.

I also bought some lifebelts, some rectangular floats, some deck light shrouds [not pictured], a liferaft to sit under the flying bridge floor, some radio and electrical panels and some resin bollards, to loose some weight by not fitting the white metal ones, same goes for the towing posts too, resin will replace metal for weight shedding.
I also picked up some "D" section rubber fender strip from Models by design too,  so this can be applied to the hull in due course.

Oh yes, one other, er "small item", simply for amusement, a "seagull", could not resist and once painted, he should sit quite happliy on the radar masting somewhere..............

[gregk9]

My next task has been to install the propshafts, now that the outer side of the hull is virtually "complete" and will only need "minor" reworking once the holes have been filled and sanded for the shafts so to speak.

I first measured the overall width of the "tunnels", as this decides the positioning of the props, to run centrally.
I prefer to then cut a plastic disc out of plasticard, slide this on the propshaft in place of the propeller, but making sure you "add" a bit to the diameter of the disc for "clearance". I for example cut the discs at 65mm diameter, as this "touched" the tunnel at 3 points, so its "near enough" to give me a centrepoint.
I then marked the drill point for where the shaft will enter through the hull and drilled a series of 10mm holes, elongating them in to a slot. One thing i did find, my cordless drill fitted in to the tunnel "just right" to stop any error or drilling sideways from happening!

Once this had been achieved and the shaft would sit in the hull slot, i then marked and slotted the "slots" to accept the stern shaft supports. Once fully checked, i refitted the plastic disc to the shaft, then turned the hull over and bent over the brass "tags", thus holding the shafts in place. I then put some masking tape on the outside of the hull, around the cut holes/apertures to prevent excess glue from spreading out then the  inner hull holes were filled over with stabilit express.

[gregk9]

Now that the propshafts are in, nows the time to install the motor mounts too. I find the best method to get a good bond with glass fibre/on glass fibre, is to mix the material actually where you are going to place the mount. It also cuts down on waste too, as you dont have to scrape the mixed stuff up to plonk it down somewhere else.
using this method helps "work" the new matting and resin in to the hull fibres to ensure a good bond once it all dries.
Once mixed I "ruffle" the mix up in to "multiple little peaks" to aid a level spread of the stuff as the motor mount is pressed down in place, as the mount settles, be sure to spread the excess glass up and over the mounting to make sure the glass "grabs" as much of the motor mount as possible, thus reducing load once the motor is working and "fully loaded" so to speak.









This will be left for 24hrs to fully cure before reinstalling the motors to their brackets.

[gregk9]

Whilst the motor mounts are "curing", I have started on the interior cabin. Well, with so many windows its a crying shame NOt to put something in there and NO, I wasn't going to simply paint the windows out. After studying the plans from RNLi I cut a basic flat floor out, then cut out the engine vents, as I want to box these to allow, "engine sound" out of the hull. Plus these need to go on to the floor plan, along with the main navigators desk, before the seats are arranged. 2 of the seat bases are fairly simple to construct, being simple square boxes, one having an angled step box added for the seat behind.

[gregk9]

 A little bit more work on two of the seat bases today, have now installed the handles and footrest.
been using a speedline figure for reference for heights and positioning, so guarantees they all will sit correctly and not have their feet dangling in mid air, or stuffed right under their chins!

Motor mounts have fully cured, so motors are now fitted.

[nhp651]

Just a point, Greg....will you not get a lot of whiplash on those exposed shafts leading to the Uv couplings at  high revs causing a lot of vibration.

neil.

[gregk9]

To be honest, these motors are rated at 6000 rpm, they are not brushless motors so not that high revving units. its also running 5mm shafts, all supplied from the manufacturer of the hull, so if its what they recommend, and they have had no problems noted from previous purchasers  what else do you do?

I think Andy from Models By Design knows what he is doing and selling by now.

[6705russell]

Greg

I think what Neil is referring to is the distance the motors are mounted from the the end of the prop-tube, if they are lined up spot on you should be ok but ideally the motors could of done with being mounted closer....

Russ

[nhp651]

To be honest, these motors are rated at 6000 rpm, they are not brushless motors so not that high revving units. its also running 5mm shafts, all supplied from the manufacturer of the hull, so if its what they recommend, and they have had no problems noted from previous purchasers  what else do you do?

I think Andy from Models By Design knows what he is doing and selling by now.

only offering advice...what else can I do???

refering to "what else you can do".........you could put in a bearing centrally between the end of the prop tube and the motor coupling to prevent whiplash.
You do know that the couplings you have fitted( presumably Huco) are only tested and approved to 2500 revs before they start vibrating(read the specs on them and straight from the manufacturer's mouth) and that is why I mentioned the whiplash problem once up to higher revs.

but hey ho!!, what do I know?

[irishcarguy]

Hi Neil, I think you know a lot & I for one would be very tempted to listen to anything  you suggest when it comes to lifeboats, but then what do I know either, ?. Mick B.

[nhp651]

thanks for that vote of confidence, Mick. For a moment I thought I was getting to old and long in the teath to be offering usefull advice, lol

[gregk9]

I have simply fitted what was supplied by the manufacturer.
If i'd of cut the iner shafts shorter, nearer to the outer tubes, it would of meant running the shafts at almost 45 degree angle out the back. i have had to use their full length to get the shafts to run at as low an angle as possible for better drive.

YES it would of been nice to of been supplied with longer outer tubes, but hey, we have to use whats given us at the time as  I dont have propshafts laying around as spares.

I may decide to fit bearing supports, I dont know untill I have had the thing running.

[nhp651]

I may decide to fit bearing supports, I dont know untill I have had the thing running.

by then it might be too late.....bent shafts, bent tubes if put under too much strain.....even a hole in the side of the hull if the shaft bends and shears away from the coupling into the side of the hull at 6000 revs.

Moderated

[gregk9]

by then it might be too late.....bent shafts, bent tubes if put under too much strain.....even a hole in the side of the hull if the shaft bends and shears away from the coupling into the side of the hull at 6000 revs.

I won't say anything else though.......your choice.



Too late you have already said all you wanted too.



I WILL Continue my build but perhaps NOT on this site.

I dont have to have my builds "dictated" to by anyone


Advice can be offered, but by no means PUSHED on someone.

its not as if you even know me.

I would prefer it if you did not post further comments on here please, for the sake of others who may still wish to continue to watch the build.


People have to be careful with the written word, as very often  things written can be taken the wrong way and you certanly know how to do this and i find your last comments very upsetting as if "you dont care and wish my build the worst that can happen.


Surely thats not what someone of your expertise should be doing or saying.

[6705russell]

Greg

I for one am following your build with interest as my Mersey is only 50 percent complete, I hope you carry on posting your build....

Cheers

Russ

[nhp651]

Too late you have already said all you wanted too.



I WILL Continue my build but perhaps NOT on this site.

I dont have to have my builds "dictated" to by anyone


Advice can be offered, but by no means PUSHED on someone.

its not as if you even know me.

I would prefer it if you did not post further comments on here please, for the sake of others who may still wish to continue to watch the build.


People have to be careful with the written word, as very often  things written can be taken the wrong way and you certanly know how to do this and i find your last comments very upsetting as if "you dont care and wish my build the worst that can happen.


Surely thats not what someone of your expertise should be doing or saying.

I was purely offering help and advice............as you clearly don't want advice from anyone, i'll bother you no more, and wish you good luck in your future build.

[gregk9]

Right, So thats cleared the "air" a little.
Tonights build has been limited by , er "correspondence" shall we say, ive done more typing than building, but have achieved a bit.

I have installed the hull cross braces and left to fully cure, before they will have the centres "cut out" to allow the interior access.
the plywood deck has also had the access panels cut out, this will be in 2 pieces. the stern section will be omitted as the interior cabin will " sit inside" this area. 
the forward section, will be screwed down in place, as this will hold the master switch gear, which will be accessed through 2 of the forward opening hatches pictured earlier in my posts.  this then allows operation of the boat without need to fully remove the upper cabin every time.

Its a lot of explanation now, but "simples" once its actually in situ, so please bear with me for a while till the thread gets that far!.

I have also now recieved the final item of lettering from barrys model lettering, which was the stern name plate. I have to admit, barry does some excellent decals and well worth a purchase from him for any boat, let alone a Lifeboat.

[irishcarguy]

I thought one of the main features of the forum was to get & give advice where appropriate. It is up to you to accept graciously or refuse it if not suitable for you. Somewhere on this thread the lines got crossed. Reading the thread I feel no put down was given or intended. I don't think Neil intended it that way either. We should move on & drop the hard words, what is the point ? NONE. 

[gregk9]

NEIL.

You promised NOT to post any further items on this build thread, yet you insist on doing so.

Kindly stick to your own words and leave this thread alone.

I never asked for your advise on the propshafts and from your attitude and "pressure" to follow YOUR instructions I never will.

PLEASE leave this thread alone for the benefit of other more interested followers.

[gregk9]

Many thanks Martin.

It's reassuring to note someone else thinks the same as myself.