Topic: Mersey 12-007 Build (Read 23391 times)

Mk1 · « **Reply #25 on:** January 07, 2012, 08:08:03 am »

Got around to masking up the bottom so I could spray the Top have sprayed the top with 5 coats of Halfords Ford Galaxy Blue. Now waiting for it to harden so I can give it a light rub over with 2500 grit wet and dry and then put a clear coat on it to protect the paint until I get around to getting the Decals and fitting them.

John

dpbarry · « **Reply #26 on:** January 09, 2012, 12:33:41 am »

Quote from: Mk1 on December 12, 2011, 12:11:45 am

Hi Neil here is the link http://www.knupfer-grossbahn.de/ They are not cheap. Thread dia 1.2 Head Dia 2mm

John

Hi Folks..

Not sure of this is any help pricewise but might suit someone.

http://www.scalehardware.com/

Declan

Mk1 · « **Reply #27 on:** January 24, 2012, 06:54:01 am »

Hi can anybody help me with info on what paint to prime a fibreglass hull with and what make and shade of paints that will work together with no problems for the top coat of the hull. I am after the Blue for the Top,White for the band and Matt Aluminium for the bottom. I ask because after I painted my hull I found I had made a mistake with the white line and in trying to correct this I have had no end of problems with the end result in I have had to take all the paint of back to bare fibreglass. Do you use a plastic primer on the hull ? All suggestions would be welcome

Thanks in advance John

6705russell · « **Reply #28 on:** January 24, 2012, 07:01:01 am »

Hi John

If you use the standard spray cans from Halfords or similar these will be fine, also if you are struggling to obtain a nice white line thru spraying stick a white trim line on after your spraying as cured...be sure to use grey primer on the hull before spraying..

Russ

Mk1 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 02, 2012, 03:32:05 pm »

Hi back to model building after a spell were I could not do anything because of a old wrist injury that played up after rubbing the hull back to fibreglass. I shall now wait for the weather to warm up and I will spray it outside as I cant use the garage now just got my daughters Morris Minor back from being sprayed now waiting for me to rebuild it. I have been working on the rear mast etc and decided that I wanted it to work as on the real one so after a lot of make, remake and remake again I have now got it working right. As you can see it was made out of brass as I find it easer than PVC to use.

Rottweiler · « **Reply #30 on:** March 02, 2012, 06:20:25 pm »

Nice to see you back,
coming together nicely John, keep up the good work.
Mick

colsathome · « **Reply #31 on:** March 13, 2012, 09:02:47 pm »

Quote from: cjlowton on December 30, 2011, 02:39:11 pm

Those stanchion plates look fantastic, how many do you have spare, would you consider selling them?

Kind Regrards,
Chris

Hi I have bought Dave Metcalfs RNLB Alice Upjohn and Ann letitia Russel and would like to use the stanchion plates that you have used, Have you any more spare to sell or where did you get them from. I need about 40.
Best Regards Colin

nhp651 · « **Reply #32 on:** March 13, 2012, 09:18:27 pm »

Quote from: colsathome on March 13, 2012, 09:02:47 pm

Quote from: cjlowton on December 30, 2011, 02:39:11 pm
Hi I have bought Dave Metcalfs RNLB Alice Upjohn and Ann letitia Russel and would like to use the stanchion plates that you have used, Have you any more spare to sell or where did you get them from. I need about 40.
Best Regards Colin

Hi, you don't need them on the Anne Letitia Russell...they are cast onto the stanchion ends of the three hole stanchions.

colsathome · « **Reply #33 on:** March 13, 2012, 09:42:33 pm »

Hi Thanks for your prompt reply, I built the Model slipway Tamar and the stanchions on it were a pain in the but and I think that the stanchions are the same on the Alice Upjohn and the Annn Letitia Russel looked the same I thought that brass ones would be stronger and look better, I haven't received the boats yet from Metcalfs.
Regards Colin

nhp651 · « **Reply #34 on:** March 13, 2012, 10:24:07 pm »

the Rother use entirely different fixing brackets which come seperately to the stanchions, and the Anne letitia Russell stanchions come with the triangular brackets and locating pins cast on to the stanchions.
The Anne Letita Russell and the 41' Watson twin Cabin class of boats were the only lifeboats in the RNLI fleet ( so I can find ) that actually had 3 hole stanchions, so if you were going to fit brass ones, you would need 3 hole stanchions if you were to keep authenticity.
neil

Mind you.....some one will prove me wrong, no doubt.

heritorasphodel · « **Reply #35 on:** March 13, 2012, 10:52:07 pm »

As far as I can see you're only wrong in that at least one of the 41' beach boats, with a single cabin, has three ball stanchions (the boats without the very deep toeboards). But apart from that, you're quite correct. I've been through most of Furball's books and it's only 41' boats.

Andrew

mk1 · « **Reply #36 on:** April 22, 2012, 03:37:58 pm »

Hi all its back to building again after a spell doing other things. In reply to some one how asked about the stanchion plates I have a few spare that I will sell. Have now resprayed the hull still has a couple of problems just waiting for the paint to harden and I can cut the paint back with some fine finishing compound and get the Decals etc on and then clear lacquer the hull.

mk1 · « **Reply #37 on:** April 22, 2012, 03:46:48 pm »

I found a problem as I started to work out the inside cabin I had taken the position of the side vents/grill from the plan I had but things did not seem to want to line up so on checking I found that the vents/grills on the early boats are in different position and also a different size. A quick visit to the boat confirmed this so took measurements and scaled them down and cut the cabin etc so they are now in the right position. I have put pictures of the old position and the new one. This caused me a lot of work so I hope this will help other builders of the Mersey Lifeboat.

John

Rottweiler · « **Reply #38 on:** May 07, 2012, 02:30:01 pm »

I saw John's Mersey on display yesterday at the very enjoyable and I hope successful Appledore Model boat show, held in the Lifeboat House and was very impressed with his building.The detail he is adding is superb and is even better than it shows in the photos.While not neccessarily going to be a working model,he is adding more intricate items,such as even the tea urn in the cabin,and a cup rack! Some of the lighting is done using fibre optics,linked for instance to the trim tabs,which means when the tabs are raised/lowered,the lights on the control panel change colour to show the operator which position they are in,as in the real Lifeboat.A real credit.Keep it going John,
Regards,
Mick

Neil · « **Reply #39 on:** May 07, 2012, 04:17:47 pm »

I would have to say that the Mersey and the Tyne class boats are my favorite "modern" fast afloat boats......and it's lovely to see them being built.......but few seem to build the Tyne class...............don't know why.
neil.

gribeauval · « **Reply #40 on:** May 07, 2012, 07:09:00 pm »

Quote from: Neil on May 07, 2012, 04:17:47 pm

I would have to say that the Mersey and the Tyne class boats are my favorite "modern" fast afloat boats......and it's lovely to see them being built.......but few seem to build the Tyne class...............don't know why.
neil.

'Cause it's not as pretty as the Mersey!!

Biased did you say?? Not me !!!!!!!

Mike

Neil · « **Reply #41 on:** May 07, 2012, 09:15:02 pm »

Quote from: gribeauval on May 07, 2012, 07:09:00 pm

'Cause it's not as pretty as the Mersey!!

Biased did you say?? Not me !!!!!!!

Mike

what ever gave you that idea, Mike....

mk1 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 10, 2012, 08:07:31 pm »

Have now got all the Decals on the Hull now and its starting to come together at last hope to give it a couple of coats of lacquer over the weekend as they give a couple of good days and I can spray it out side. I had a small problem when I started to do the Water Depth Markings I noticed that they are the layout was the ones that were used when the boat was 1st built but when it was renovated they were changed to the present style. I got my Decals from Barry's Model Lettering so I got in touch with him and sent him some photos and explained that the style was not quite right. He came back to me with a new style which matched what I wanted [ I have to say a 1st class service wish all dealers were the same] I enclose a photo of both types of markings so other people can see the difference and check what one was used on there boat at that time.

mk1 · « **Reply #43 on:** June 19, 2012, 07:18:03 pm »

Hi some work done but not as much as I hoped as it gets to hot in my workshop some days its over a 100 deg and I don't like that much heat. I have been making some of the small items. Were possible I have made them to work just like the real version it has taken a bit of time but getting there. Have now got the trim tab display working pictures next time.

John

mk1 · « **Reply #44 on:** June 19, 2012, 07:24:42 pm »

A couple more photos

Neil · « **Reply #45 on:** June 19, 2012, 08:29:54 pm »

Lovely brass work ther Mk1

well impressed.
neil.

Rottweiler · « **Reply #46 on:** June 19, 2012, 08:52:17 pm »

I would have thought the Gobeye was pretty difficult to do,especially so if it is working! I agree with you Neil, John is good with his soldering iron!
Mick F

mk1 · « **Reply #47 on:** June 22, 2012, 06:41:27 am »

Just a few more of the items I have made

mk1 · « **Reply #48 on:** June 22, 2012, 07:02:40 am »

I said that I have got the Trim Tab display on the cockpit working. I will try and show how I done it. I started of with 40 x 0.5mm fibre optic cables which I put into 2 lines with slots cut 10mm long x 0.5mm into the mounting boars. The ends were pushed through and fastened. The other ends were split up into 4 lots of 10 and were fixed into a tube with a 3mm red LED in the bottom.
The wires from these go via a connector block to 4 bladed micro switches which has power from the battery. The switches are mounted next to the servo that moves the trim tabs. The servo has a long arm on it so as one end moves the tab rod the other end travels upwards and hits the arms 1 at a time so it shows up on the display as 2 lots of 4 fibre optic lit up as the arm travels up more so more fibre optics light up.
This took me quite a while to get right as I had problems in getting the wires out of the way and easy to un hook the wires from the cabin to the hull. I also had a problem with both servo working in opposite directions but some kind person on here answered my problem with telling me about a servo reverser got one and it work great Thanks.
I enclose a few photos.

John

mk1 · « **Reply #49 on:** June 22, 2012, 07:08:30 am »

Some more photos of the trim tabs

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Author Topic: Mersey 12-007 Build (Read 23391 times)

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

colsathome

nhp651

colsathome

nhp651

heritorasphodel