Topic: Mersey 12-007 Build (Read 23386 times)

Mk1 · « **on:** November 23, 2011, 08:41:21 am »

Hi my name is John and I bought a Mersey Lifeboat Hull and Cabin from one of are members earlier this year and have now started to build it. I have modeled this boat on the Ilfacombe Lifeboat 007. This is not going to be a quick build but will post photos as I go.

I know this is another Mersey build on her at present and as there are quite a few differences between the early boats and later boats I thought it would show these differences and also the different style of building.

Mk1 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2011, 06:40:53 pm »

Hi just a couple more photos the 1st one is of the inside of the boat the 2nd and 3rd are of the brackets that the toe boards fit to 60 in total.

John

irishcarguy · « **Reply #2 on:** November 27, 2011, 09:06:09 pm »

Hi John, you have a nice project going there & when done right it will be a great boat. One of our resident lifeboat experts on this forum is presently missing but should be back soon, he is NHP651 , you can find his profile on here still, then you can PM him with any questions you may have. Looking at the pictures of your boat the propshafts look like they are exposed for a long way out of the outer tubes inside the boat. This is not the correct way to install the propshafts. The outer tube should be as close as possible to the u/joint at the motor end & the bare shaft outside the hull should be supported with a proper mount to eliminate vibration. I have seen another lifeboat on here that has exactly that problem, the propshaft is installed the wrong way around. In the meantime there are other really smart guys on here to help you.Mick B

gregk9 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2011, 12:14:55 am »

The shafts run fine in my own boat, trust me, ive tested them. the only thing I would strongly advise is "watch the weight" of your build, that was strong advise I was given from Models by design, who suplied my hull. If you can get away with using styrene and thin ply, do so, use too much brass or resin casts and the weight will quickly mount up and you will have a really heavy boat and will need too much battery power lost having to move the weight around.

Yes, I appreciate the brass fittings you have created look fantastic and do look the part, but plasticwelded styrene can give similar results at a much lighter cost.

Incidentally, what size of motors & batteries are you choosing to run in your build?

if you dont wish to "give the game away live on here, pm me ! [ha ha].

Best wishes with your build, it looks great.!

irishcarguy · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2011, 06:39:57 am »

Hi Greg , In fact the shafts in your boat are also back to front, in other words are installed incorrectly. Am I not correct in saying that you had the same warning from a very knowledgeable member of this forum who is well respected for his knowledge of lifeboats. It would not be the first time that there has been a mistake in the instructions supplied by a manufacturer. However having read All the Treads Yours included. Am I not correct in saying that you felt you had been shipped the wrong ones ?. You have not test sailed your boat yet so how can you claim to have tested them, hardly in a bath tub ?.It is important when we give members on this or any forum information that that information is based on a solid foundation of Fact. not just our opinions ,if it is our opinions we are expressing we have a duty to make that known at the time of posting. If we don't then we are misleading & may be responsible for causing damage or worse to the very person we are supposed to help.You are of course entitled to your opinion Greg, but I am also entitled to mine, and in this case I think John would be wise to follow my advice. Mick B.

Mk1 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2011, 03:48:00 pm »

Hi just to clear up a missunderstanding I have enclosed a new photo of the prop shafts. As you can see the tube is nearly full length and has a support on the end.

Hi Greg I take on board what you said about weight and using styrene. Me and Styrene are like Oil and Water they do not get on so this is why I use brass etc I find it easier. Will have to bear the weight issue when it is finished.

As for the Motors and Batteries have not given it a lot of thought at present again will see what the weight is and go from there. To be honest I get more pleasure in building the models than sailing them. This year I have finished off 2 Tugs total use about 8 times.

John

irishcarguy · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2011, 04:31:10 pm »

Hi John, now with a much clearer picture of your shafts they will be fine as the outer comes right up to the point at which you fit the u/joint. It is either the light or are the propshafts aluminium it is hard to tell from the picture ?. Either way it looks like you are O/K. I wish you lots of fun with your build & I will follow it with much interest, thank you for sharing with us all. Mick B.

Number 6 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2011, 08:23:33 pm »

Are the shafts in both builds ones supplied by Models By Design? They do look longer than necessary, they definitely need to be well supported. I know when I built my Mersey they weren't supplied and I sourced my own. I can't remember how long they were but I do remember the motors were much closer to the stern.
It'll be interesting to see how they both sail and handle. They do benefit from being built as light as possible though as they're not the biggest Lifeboat model bearing in mind the battery weight and keeping running times reasonable. Dave.

Mk1 · « **Reply #8 on:** December 09, 2011, 07:54:56 am »

Hi no the shafts the shafts were not supplied by Models by Design I got them from MMB. They are a bit longer than they need be but I can cut them back if I find the motors are to far forward its easier than trying to make them longer. I have been making the toe boards and the fairleads just waiting for the bolts and stanchion bottoms to come so I can drill and fit the toe boards.

John

Mk1 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 11, 2011, 03:55:57 pm »

Now fitted the drain pipes from the engine and breather etc. Now got the 1.2mm stainless steel bolts for fitting the toe boards so have now drilled the toe board brackets and temporary fitted the toe boards so when I get the bottom of the stanchions I can start to work out were these go.

John

Rottweiler · « **Reply #10 on:** December 11, 2011, 06:54:28 pm »

Hi John,
looking good!I didn't realise you has access to Ilfracombe when I offered to take photos of the St.Ives Mersey for you? I take it my request regarding the trailer is a nono then?
Looks like you are making good progress,and ?I will get to see it at Appledore show?
keep up the good work.
Mick

nhp651 · « **Reply #11 on:** December 11, 2011, 08:56:03 pm »

john, could you give me a link to your suppler of the nuts and bolts please.
the ones I used to go to have shot up astronomically in price lately.
what were yours per 100, please.
just one more question about them.it it the thread dia or the head/nut that are the 1.2mm in size.
cheers, neil.

Mk1 · « **Reply #12 on:** December 12, 2011, 12:11:45 am »

Hi Neil here is the link http://www.knupfer-grossbahn.de/ They are not cheap. Thread dia 1.2 Head Dia 2mm

John

irishcarguy · « **Reply #13 on:** December 12, 2011, 07:10:50 am »

Hi MK1, I checked the site you gave for bolts. I have a question, how did you order as it is all in German, & I cant read English very well never mind German,LOL Mick B.

CJ1 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 12, 2011, 10:46:33 am »

Mick,
Here's a good trick. For any foreign language site, use Google and type in the name of the company only (not the www. web address) and press "search". In this case use "knupfer-grossbahn".
You should see the web site you are looking for in the results and next to the green web address you will see in blue "Translate this page". Hit that and after a few seconds, there is the web site.....in English.
You've got to admire Google from time to time!
Chris

irishcarguy · « **Reply #15 on:** December 12, 2011, 06:41:46 pm »

Thanks Chris it worked like a dream, yes Google sure do some very good things. The world is so technical these days it is hard for us old guys to keep up ( I mean me not you ) Mick B.

nhp651 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 12, 2011, 11:27:55 pm »

hi John..........I emailed the company today, as I couldn't geta translate to work..received a reply from a gentleman called Dieter this evening who was very helpfull......however as you said, they are very expensive ..........abot 3 times the cost of some suppliers in this country...........but they do look lovely stuff.

will do a bit of searching and let you know the outcome.
again, many thanks,
neil.

Mk1 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:01:25 am »

Hi Neil glad you got through to them. If you can find any supplier in this country that do the same size stainless steel bolts etc for less then please let me know as I still want a few more to Finnish the build. I have tried many suppliers in this country and most do brass or steel which I didn't want as I would have to paint them to look right.

John

nhp651 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 13, 2011, 12:04:10 am »

will do.

cheers, neil.

Mk1 · « **Reply #19 on:** December 13, 2011, 04:10:07 pm »

Have now got the stanchion plate ends in Brass for the stanchion ends and Stainless Steel to go on the inside. Also got the Stainless Steel washers to go with the 1.2mm bolts. Got a lot more of the stanchion plates its just as cheap as you have to pay for the setting up I reckon some people might want some. Just made one up to show what they look like I have silver soldered a short piece of tube to the plate to take the stanchion.

John

Mk1 · « **Reply #20 on:** December 19, 2011, 03:54:18 pm »

Hi have been away from the boat for a day or 2 but now back in the swing. Have been making up the side hand rails. I have silver soldered all the joints to make a good solid job with less likely that they will brake when handling. The 2 ball stanchions came from Speedline a nice item. Now got to clean them up to get rid of any unwanted solder and flux. On with the rear rails.

John

Mk1 · « **Reply #21 on:** December 29, 2011, 03:55:00 pm »

Hi back to posting again have now finished the rear handrails and cleaned all the rails up ready for the final degrease and then etch primer. Also made the Gobeye not the easiest of items to make had to have a couple of attempts to make the top section that hinges up working I also made the H section that fits in the holes but forgot to put it in when I took the picture. Now getting the Hull ready for paint.

John

morgsy · « **Reply #22 on:** December 30, 2011, 02:39:11 pm »

Quote from: Mk1 on December 13, 2011, 04:10:07 pm

Have now got the stanchion plate ends in Brass for the stanchion ends and Stainless Steel to go on the inside. Also got the Stainless Steel washers to go with the 1.2mm bolts. Got a lot more of the stanchion plates its just as cheap as you have to pay for the setting up I reckon some people might want some. Just made one up to show what they look like I have silver soldered a short piece of tube to the plate to take the stanchion.

John

Those stanchion plates look fantastic, how many do you have spare, would you consider selling them?

Kind Regrards,
Chris

Mk1 · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:08:04 pm »

Hi Chris yes I would send me a PM.

John

Mk1 · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:22:27 pm »

Happy New Year to all. Have managed to prime the hull I gave it a couple of coats of primer filler let it rest for a day and lightly rubbed it down with 600 wet and dry. I then gave it a couple of coats of White primer and when dry flattened it down with 800 wet and dry. I then put a couple of Gloss coats of White on were the White band goes but forgot to take photos. When dry after a day I masked up the top to were the bottom meets the White line and then gave the bottom 4 coats of Matt Aluminum paint now waiting for it to dry.

John

News:

Author Topic: Mersey 12-007 Build (Read 23386 times)

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

nhp651

Mk1

CJ1

nhp651

Mk1

nhp651

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1

Mk1