Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length.

[glendavis1971]

Hi all

    I recently visited the model show at the fleet air arm museum at Yeovilton and on a whim bought this kit, the Lindberg Blue Devil Destroyer. Mainly because I liked the box lol. Since then I have heard untold horror stories about this kit and wondered if I’d bought a dud. Now I have had time to go through the kit very carefully and research the subject I have decided it wasn't a bad buy after all. What the critics seem to fail to take into account this kit is 1960's and has never been updated, is really a toy probably aimed at 12-16 year olds so precise accuracy was never intended just a close representation. So yes some of the parts are a bit on the chunky side (radar assemblies in particular) and yes there are a few inaccuracies, but compare that to a airfix kit of the period and the same kit today there is one hell of a difference in standards a case in point the fairey swordfish kit recently remoulded. Do I want a perfectly accurate model? The answer is a simple no I'm probably not capable of building any model perfectly so best I can manage will do me.

    The models itself is 1/125 scale, a bit odd but close enough to 1/128 if after market bits are needed. The kit also has some funky working features the guns and gun director move in unison along with the torpedo tubes controlled by a cam taken off the gear box. During my research I came across tom's modelworks (http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/ and American company that produces a photo etch brass detail set for this kit. Just hand to get one arrived 6 weeks later. This will sort those chunky radars out a treat. The running gear for my model will be A planet t6m receiver, 2x mfa 280 motors, a M'troniks auto sport 20a ecs (because I had one going spare), Battery not certain yet will do some trails to get right speed, 2 new m2 prop shafts, RH and LH 23mm ww2 pattern Props (from prop shop yet to be purchased) and a servo for rudder control. My model will still have rotating guns and director and possibly torpedo tubes. I will also fit 2 small smoke generators as I think these ship look better on the water with smoke coming from the stacks.

Well about to go and make a start going start with fitting the running gear and do some test for the battery

Wish me luck

Glen

[AlanT]

This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.
I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.

Regards

Alan

[RAAArtyGunner]

This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.

Regards

Alan

We'll also be keeping an eye on it from down here.
Have the exact same kit, so will be eager to see how you tackle it. 

[malcolmfrary]

One of these days I might have a go at one of these myself - I've just done its' little buddy, the minesweeper USS Sentry, at the same scale.  The surprise with that is how stable it sails considering the amount of upstairs and the lack of downstairs.  I'm running it with two motor controls and no rudder - when connected the rudder didn't seem to do anything, the linkage was a pain, and the servo broke.  For a narrow boat, it is surprising that it can spin on its own axis.  Might be worth considering on the Fletcher.

[RAAArtyGunner]

One of these days I might have a go at one of these myself - I've just done its' little buddy, the minesweeper USS Sentry, at the same scale.  The surprise with that is how stable it sails considering the amount of upstairs and the lack of downstairs.  I'm running it with two motor controls and no rudder - when connected the rudder didn't seem to do anything, the linkage was a pain, and the servo broke.  For a narrow boat, it is surprising that it can spin on its own axis.  Might be worth considering on the Fletcher.

 

[george]

  Hello Glen

 This is george from Canada. I have this same ship at home as well. I have been viewing various builds of this ship and ALL have one common message. Keep the Upper weight as light as possible! In turns it tended to roll badley. Everyone who built this model has hollowed out the Super structure as much as possible.

 Good luck with your build and build pictures would be nice also Glen.

 P.S.  I replied to your P.M Reg. PCF already.

 Thanks again for Posting Glen.

 George

[essex2visuvesi]

This should be a very interesting thread. Really looking forward to it.
I'm a big fan of plastic warship conversions, having completed a Revell Corvette and currently working on the Tamiya Enterprise....
Incidently check out the micro servos on Ebay. Excellent value, great in a confined space, (like a plastic hull) and I've found them very reliable.

Regards

Alan

I have a load of the clear blue micro servos. if you want one drop me a PM and ill bung it in the post

[glendavis1971]

Hi Alan thanks I also the Airfix HMS Illustrious in my plastic kit stash thats sceam out to be converted to R/C

I did consider a mixer malcom but wanted to see how she runs with rudders first, but its still an option and theres a v tail mixed in my bits box

Hello george I got your message and working on it lol. I and anticipating stability probs and will proberly end up fitting a removable keel to lower the C of G. I used this system on HMS Opal which before keel rolled all over now a very stable model on the water



You just see the keel in this pic

Thanks for the offer essex I also have loads of those servo. they are very reliable I have one thats been to the bottom of the pond and still works a treat


Part 1
Running gear Installation

1/ Prop shaft supports (sorry guy not sure what this bit is called)





As you can see the supports come in 2 halves which with the supplies shafts just glue together. As i'm using proper prop shafts I needed to modify the support by first using a round file to enlarge and deepen the shaft tube in the plastic. Then I made spacers from 1mm plasticard to a total of 2mm to widen the space enogh for a nice fit of the shaft. I glued the pieces together and when dry pushed the shafts into the supports

2/ Motor Mount





The motor mount is used directly from the kit the only modification was for the mounting screws

3/ Motor and Shaft Fitting to Hull



I placed the motor mount and shaft supports loosely into the hull. The hole for the supports required a little widening to allow the shaft support through. While loose i fitted the coupling. the really was very easy as the motor mount was made to the exact angle to match the shafts and the simply lined up so a dab of liquid poly to hold in place then i glued the whole thing in place.



Once dry I used my own melted plastic sulution to strengthen the joints

[george]

   Hello

 Very nice and informative so far. Keep the updates coming please.

 Thanks
George

[RAAArtyGunner]

Hi Glen,

Tagging along 

[glendavis1971]

Thanks guys heres part 2.

I have now completed the running gear please not the kits plastic props will be replaces with brass ones very soon

1/ Rudders



The rudders are straight out the box and fitted as per instructions

2/ ECS, Rudder servo and Battery



The kit comes with a very handy and good sized battery tray designed to take 6 D cells (the big round ones), it nicely hold the 7.2V nicad I'm using with room to spare. I glued this in postion onto the 2 spigots in the hulls mid point. I attached self adhesive velcro cut to size to ECS and stuck it in the space between the battery tray and motors. The Rudder servo I was unsure about. Have a long control run from bow to stern or the less accessible option close to the rudders. I chose close to rudders purely because I have a dislike of long control runs. I simply lined the rudders up and hot glued the servo in place and using a crudely bent length of piano wire connected the rudders to the servo. On test this has worked very well.

I have floated the hull on my pond in the garden and tested for speed. The 7.2v nicad was too powerful so I have ordered a 6v NiMh which should help keep top speed down ans still supply enough power for the 2 smoke genny's I will be fitting.

Any questions comments or advice I'd love to hear

Glen

[RAAArtyGunner]

Glen,

Looking good.

Any chance of a close up photo of your rudder/servo installation.

Also what  size and length of the prop tubes did you use.

When you said she is too fast and are going to change to 6V power supply, could not the 7.2V power pack have remained with easing back on the throttle when sailing.

[AlanT]

Hi Glen...Great work, keep it up!.....

It just struck me how similar your build is to my Enterprise construction.....Here is a quick photo of my internal layout...It is obviously a work in progress as I'm waiting to fit inline fuses and ballast has to be added., but you can get a rough idea...



I used Steve Tranters, (Stevesmodelbits) M2 shafts 2 No. and kept the outside kit tubes etc as dummies. Raboesch 20mm 5 blade brass props. I also used a 6volt Lead Acid battery.
You won't get planning but mine would probably turn over if it ever got above manovering speed!...

More progress please....

Regards

Alan

[essex2visuvesi]

I noticed in the last pic you have glued in the servo... Im not sure this was a wise move.  Those little blue micro servos are notorious for stripping gears

[glendavis1971]

Pics as requested raaaty like i said very crude but effective.

Looks great alan love to see more about how you have gone about it I have hms illustrious i would like to convert

I know essex its a risk but i have never had any problems with these servos I will be making the rear deck aft of last gun removable to allow access

[RAAArtyGunner]

Pics as requested raaaty like i said very crude but effective.

Thank you 

[glendavis1971]

done some more work

Forward Superstructure

I have decided to build the superstructures next starting with the forward section. These all need to be removeable for access to the r/c gear and battery etc.

As the following photos show there is a error with the watertight doors that i just can't leave as it would annoy me. For some reason Linberg have molded the clips off and away from the doors when on the real ships the clip are mounted on the door. Also the clips are vastly over scale.





I removed the clips with a scapel and have decided not to try and replace them as they would be very small and hardly noticable.



I removed all the clips from every door before assembly. The structure was then built in deck sections which can be taken apart for painting and assembly of the moving parts.



love to hear your comments,ideas and sugestions

Glen

[Harquebus]

Since you went after the annoying error on the watertight doors, I am surprised you left the pilot house front-bulkhead-error in place. All square bridge Fletchers (like this model represents) had a 5 window bulkhead (or 5 portholes), not 4.



The one other thing that really bothers me the most is the stubby barrel length of the main armament. The actual mount in the gun houses can be moved forward (with new holes drilled to accommodate) to correct this somewhat. Or, you can add aftermarket barrels, scratchbuild some new ones or what have you. Uncorrected, the guns look rather comical.

[Rmay]

Careful with the “fixing” of the Linberg problems, it could become an obsession that will sink you as fast as not gluing the hull together properly

I started out just like you’re doing – fixing a few things here then there. Soon it became a full time occupation that drove me nuts. Sometimes the best thing to do is realize this kit is just a “fun” model and should be enjoyed as such. That being said I am enjoying your build and will keep following. Even if it leads to madness

[Harquebus]

Rmay, you are absolutely correct and what one has to do is be content with the idea of standoff scale; the idea of it looking satisfactory from a distance. I was just pointing out a few details that are some of the larger glaring errors. Glen picked out very minute details that already indicate that he is treading into the dangerous waters you speak of.

Glen, while you're at it, go ahead and sand off the molded-on wheels on the watertight doors. The Blue Devil depicts both the "Quick Acting" watertight wheel operated door and the manual "dogs" that you sanded off around the door. Having both is redundant and from my earlier pic you can see there are no wheel doors, at least vertically mounted and on the exterior.

[glendavis1971]

Hi Guys

Been so busy over last few weeks my Mrs made me finish the garden so not had anytime to model but at last did some more work on her over the past week thanks to the lovely rain in the south coast of england lets hope it stay like this for Olympics. I have built the remaining super structures sections, funnels, torpedo tubes and gun turrets. Everything is still loose assembled on deck. I have also fitted 2 small smoke generators with a r/c switch that allows me to switch smoke on and off at will.



Hi harquebus

I'm hearing what your saying but to change the bridge to 5 portholes is a lot more work than just filling and drilling new holes which i am just not going to bother with 4 port holes look just fine to me and i have beautiful models using this kit http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery/dd/dd-661/125-ew/ew-index.html. The picture you supplied is a classic example of every ship being different your picture shows an extended deck area in front of the pilot house not fitted as standard you also mentioned the water tight doors having dogs not hand wheels again this depends on the i have drawings and photos in my book clearly showing hand wheels . According to my research 186 Fletcher's were built in 11 different shipyards all over the USA and as with British ships no two are the same. I agree with you about the gun look a little stubble until i thought I'd change the and took some measurement. The gun barrels protrude 1 1/4 inches from the turret that equates to 156 inches accord the wikipedia the 5 inch gun overall length is 220" with a barrel length of  190" I'd say the are correct and the gaiters give the impression of stubbyness.

Thanks rmay I only intended fixing certain stuff not all other your right i'll go mad 
















just after the last 3 pic the smoke alarm went off

Hope your enjoying this build as much as me guys please tell what you think plus any suggestion especially on how the make the gun turrets rotate together

Glen

[Armo61]

Hey Glen,

I like what I am seeing, do you know and no Bull I think I bought this kit in the Eighties when I lived in Sydney.

I put her all together and did the cammo on it and then sailed her in a local pond that I had found.

Well mate I was very lucky, she was going along at great guns when she stopped and started to list ever so slowly.

Well she was my pride and joy, so without thinking I just jumped into the water clothes and all and managed to reach her.

But I was out in the middle of the pond and couldnt touch the bottom ( I found out later there is no bottom to that pond) so I had to push
the boat along with my head while trying to get back to the side. The weight of all the wet clothes and socks and shoes was something else too.

I tell you I have never been so scared in all my life Glen, so please make sure she is water tight its scary when something like that happens.

Guess it put me off boating for a long time and I threw the boat into the garbage bin (I know silly man) but that's how it affected me.

Good luck mate

Charles

[Rmay]

Shots from the USS Kidd doors!

They had a few doors with hand wheels and the rest with "dogs"

[Armo61]

Glen,  just sitting looking at this model I am converting of the battleship and thinking of this USS Melvin.

Re turning turrets.

I reckon there is enough room to use a mini servo on each turret then coupled with a y lead into the Rx of say a 4 or 6 ch set normally on a 4 channel you would have channels spare as only using 2 for basic workings so Y leads into spare channels on rx and you could control individual groups of 2 turrets at a time.

Also on a 6 channel would leave enough room in the middle of the Hull for say a graupner smoke unit of 7.2 V.

Good idea or what???

Charles

[Armo61]

Sorry forgot to ask last posting, What smoke unit are you using for the Melvin, can you advise also the size length and width???
Thank you
Charles