Topic: Bought a new toy on Ebay, have some questions (Read 39104 times)

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #25 on:** July 22, 2012, 03:50:14 pm »

Hi Cal, It all looks abour right, Dont worry about the pin in the connecting rod, it needs a certain amount of play in it, and any where you find a oiler, put oil in, the crankshaft bearings need to be kept well oiled for obvious reasons. I am still looking for some instructions, I have them somewhere!
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #26 on:** July 22, 2012, 06:23:41 pm »

Thanks Nick, I filled the crankshaft oilers and it seems to turn somewhat easier, might be my imagination though! I also pulled the caps on the other oilers and I would put a drop in (thats all it would take at one time) turn the crank a half turn and it would suck it right in. I did this several times and began to wonder, just how much should go in? There doesn't seem to be a reservoir of any size. Also, after doing this it seemed to turn harder. Could I have put too much oil in the cylinders? Thanks again.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #27 on:** July 22, 2012, 06:48:04 pm »

Sounds like you have got too much oil in the cylinders now, open the regulator and turn the engine over and the excess oil will dribble out of the steam inlet and exhaust.

muleears · « **Reply #28 on:** July 22, 2012, 07:20:21 pm »

Thanks Nick, will give it a try. Thats what I suspected. So I don't do this again

Should I just put a drop or two in before each run? Is that sufficient?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #29 on:** July 22, 2012, 09:14:20 pm »

once you fill the oiler and screw the cap on the flow of oil will slow down, just a little will be picked up by the steam and carried into the cylinders to do its work.

muleears · « **Reply #30 on:** July 22, 2012, 09:40:19 pm »

Update: Just ran it about 20 minutes, ran out of gas before it ran out of steam. I thought the butane tank was full, I guess not. Anyway, it still needed a push to start. Maybe I didn't wait for enough pressure but the water was boiling in the gauge. Initially it didn't want to run in reverse at all, but after a few more minutes of running forward and several nudges, it finally began to run in reverse, but slowly. Did my excess oil have something to do with this? I got a phone call in the middle of this run and let it sit idle for about 3 minutes. When restarted (forward, which it did on its own) it ran faster than it had been running. I guess the pause had built up a little more pressure. It doesn't have a gauge so I don't know for sure.

It appears I am slowly making progress, both in experience and knowledge of this boat. I will continue to fiddle with the engine, but the next project is a good cleaning then replacing the radio. Currently the servos are loose and move when utilized and the battery pack is located in such a manner as to interfere with the rudder linkage. Must get these taken care of before I even think about putting it in any real water. I have a large garden tub, maybe that will be next!

As long as Mrs. doesn't find out!

Thank you again for all the help.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #31 on:** July 23, 2012, 12:17:45 am »

Let the boiler pressure build up until the safety valve just begins to lift, that will indicate that the boiler has reached working pressure, keep the oilers topped up and she will soon be running smoothly, my guess is it needs a few good runs with plenty of oil to free everything up after lying idle for a long time. keep tinkering with it and you will soon get to know it's running characteristics.
Regards,
Nick

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #32 on:** July 23, 2012, 02:09:00 pm »

Cal what oil are you using? The bearing require normal oil the the cylinders need Steam Oil.
Regards,
Gerald.

muleears · « **Reply #33 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:30:09 pm »

Quote from: steamboatmodel on July 23, 2012, 02:09:00 pm

Cal what oil are you using? The bearing require normal oil the the cylinders need Steam Oil.
Regards,
Gerald.

I'm glad you told me that Gerald, I was using steam oil for both. When you say "normal oil" do you mean I can use automotive motor oil? Such as a full synthetic multi grade? Or should I use plain old 3N 1? Should I flush and clean the steam oil out of the crank bearings? My steam oil is "6% Cylinder Oil for Steam Engines and Pumps" I believe I got it from one of the usual suppliers. Anything else I need to be aware of, oil wise?
Thanks for the advice.

Cal

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #34 on:** July 23, 2012, 08:33:30 pm »

Hi Cal, forgot to mention that, I use 3in 1 for bearings, no need to strip them down, the 3 in 1 will flush it through.....

derekwarner · « **Reply #35 on:** July 23, 2012, 11:59:51 pm »

Guys......sewing machine oil is light enough for model steam bearing applications and also in small handy spouted plastic bottles which is good for reaching into the engine crank structure or eccentrics

If the engine has oil cups on the crankshaft & the engine is old........you could take a conventional cotton bud [or two] ...strip

the cotton & refill each cup.........Derek

muleears · « **Reply #36 on:** July 24, 2012, 12:22:01 am »

That's a good idea, we already have one of those for our sewing machine too.

OT question: I have made a 60 second video of the engine running, how do I upload a video? Do I have to put it on YouTube and post a link? Or is there a way to post directly?

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #37 on:** July 24, 2012, 12:46:57 am »

I think uploading to utube and posting a link is the way to go, I'm not sure if you can post video here, as there may be a space issue with the server, but I may be wrong....

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #38 on:** July 24, 2012, 10:29:09 am »

...... nope, you completely correct pettyofficerNick!

YouTube is setup for just this sort of thing,... and do it very well.

steamboatmodel · « **Reply #39 on:** July 24, 2012, 07:59:15 pm »

Hi Cal,
Most of the others beat me to it, you can use just about anything on the bearings. I think my bottle is a mixture of 3 in 1 and straight 30 W oil. The cylinder oil is the correct one I think mine was labeled "Texaco 460", I was given some by one of the engineers at the refinery (fortunately as long as you keep the air out it won't turn rancid).
Regards,
Gerald.

muleears · « **Reply #40 on:** July 24, 2012, 11:16:17 pm »

First attempt at posting a video! Please let me know if it doesn't work! Also let me know what you think of how the motor runs, seems kind of slow to me and it's running full throttle. If it's not obvious from the video, this is with no load.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tMTpENFU6A&feature=plcp

Thanks,
Cal

derekwarner · « **Reply #41 on:** July 24, 2012, 11:32:31 pm »

Cal...naturally the video displays OK ....congratulations on the purchase

I am sure the sound is amplified by the kitchen sink

The overboard discharge ...is this normal...is there a de-oiler?
The engine speed is difficult judge....have you compared the engine running by itself out of the vessel or with the prop shaft disconnected?
As Nick has said ...."Let the boiler pressure build up until the safety valve just begins to lift"
What pressure is the boiler providing?
The engine flywheel seems to have a wobble

.......is it secured by a grub screw?

Please post another video displaying more of the engine when under steam.....Derek

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #42 on:** July 25, 2012, 12:03:30 am »

I woud say your engine is running at a nice steady pace, if it runs too fast, it will just guzzle all the steam up for no real extra power. She will run even slower when in the water, but with a nice coarse prop she should run quite well. When the engine is actually doing some work, it will go slower, use less steam but still deliver some useful power. It looks like the exhaust is sent directly overboard, you should think about fitting an oil seperator, otherwise steam oil in the exhaust could find its way into the lake, possibly enraging other model boaters by making their nice paint jobs all oily, also keeps the 'fluffy bunny' brigade happy. Be nice to see a video of her on the water. You have done a grand job so far.
Regards,
Nick.

muleears · « **Reply #43 on:** July 25, 2012, 01:48:41 am »

Quote from: derekwarner_decoy on July 24, 2012, 11:32:31 pm

Cal...naturally the video displays OK ....congratulations on the purchase

I am sure the sound is amplified by the kitchen sink
The overboard discharge ...is this normal...is there a de-oiler?
The engine speed is difficult judge....have you compared the engine running by itself out of the vessel or with the prop shaft disconnected?
As Nick has said ...."Let the boiler pressure build up until the safety valve just begins to lift"
What pressure is the boiler providing?
The engine flywheel seems to have a wobble .......is it secured by a grub screw?

Please post another video displaying more of the engine when under steam.....Derek

Derek,

To answer your questions (as best as I can):
I thought the sink added a nice echo, didn't you?

The overboard discharge is as it arrived, I have seen several other boats with this arrangement. There is/was no de-oiler with the boat.
I have not run the engine out of the boat, I do know the running gear turns very smoothly and with no friction.
I suspect both you and Nick are right about my not letting enough pressure build, I don't believe I have ever let it build enough to begin to lift the safety valve. Perhaps I will have time tomorrow to try again.
I don't know the pressure as it doesn't have a gauge.
I will investigate the wobble in the flywheel.

Thank you for all your great advice.

Cal

muleears · « **Reply #44 on:** July 25, 2012, 02:04:01 am »

Quote from: pettyofficernick on July 25, 2012, 12:03:30 am

I woud say your engine is running at a nice steady pace, if it runs too fast, it will just guzzle all the steam up for no real extra power. She will run even slower when in the water, but with a nice coarse prop she should run quite well. When the engine is actually doing some work, it will go slower, use less steam but still deliver some useful power. It looks like the exhaust is sent directly overboard, you should think about fitting an oil seperator, otherwise steam oil in the exhaust could find its way into the lake, possibly enraging other model boaters by making their nice paint jobs all oily, also keeps the 'fluffy bunny' brigade happy. Be nice to see a video of her on the water. You have done a grand job so far.
Regards,
Nick.

Nick,
The prop appears to be the one that came with the kit, I am not an expert but I don't think it has enough pitch, especially if the engine is going to run at those RPM's. Plus, it is plastic (yuck) it needs a brass prop. Any suggestions on size/pitch?

Yes, it does have an over the side discharge, I will look into a "chuff pot" (if that is what they are called.) I have a small antique brass torch that I may be able to fashion into one. You are right I don't want the fish and bug people on my case as a polluter!

Thanks again for all the advice. I really need to get back to the Victoria, and get her finished and ready to sail. According to the Ebay auction, this boat had been rebuilt by an "expert modeller". I find that highly suspect as I see many small shortcuts that had been taken in construction. I think the Victoria will look better than this "expert" built model. I guess we will see...

derekwarner · « **Reply #45 on:** July 25, 2012, 04:17:49 am »

goes to the original builder Cal if they didn't install a pressure gauge

The model pressure gauges we see in most models......those 3/4"diameter beautiful brass bodied units & they are accurate to +/- 10 % on full scale which is great...however without a gauge & if an incident occured where the relief valve failed to open & .....

an injury ...... well the

could be involved

No matter how attractive the e-bay purchase was........

every model steam boiler requires a relief valve & hence a pressure gauge....& most probably a boiler test certificate

which also embodies the function of the relief valve .....keep us posted......Derek

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #46 on:** July 25, 2012, 08:50:49 am »

Good morning Cal, As Derek says, always best to have a pressure gauge, but Krick did not fit these on their early engines, nor did they supply a boiler test certificate The brass boilers on these engines, unfortunately, are not very good, and they are only soft soldered, the example I had failed around the joint between the sight glass and the boiler shell and I had to re solder it and brass is not the best boilermaking material my local boiler tester refused to test mine, you only need to compare it to Mike Abbot of Maccsteam's work to see the difference. Lagging will help keep some of the heat in. I would go for the biggest prop that will fit in the available space, with a pitch that is near to or equal to the diameter.I am sure Victoria will be a much better job, get back to it, I,m waiting for the photos of the finished job. Personally, I always suspect things that have been done by 'experts' ex = a has been, and a spert = a drip under pressure. Off to the lake now to sail my Victoria while the suns out.
Take care,
Regards,
Nick

muleears · « **Reply #47 on:** July 26, 2012, 02:28:27 am »

I just ordered a pressure gauge and adapter from PM Research, it should be here early next week. As far as the pressure cert for the boiler, I have no idea where to go. I have one for my Macsteam, but that was done in the UK. I'll do some research and see what I can find.

derekwarner · « **Reply #48 on:** July 26, 2012, 03:22:43 am »

Cal.....a model club...be it marine or railway should have a contact for a person qualified to test & certify boilers

....Derek

pettyofficernick · « **Reply #49 on:** July 26, 2012, 08:55:06 am »

Hi Cal, you may have difficulty fitting a pressure gauge to your boiler, the PM research gauge and siphon is threaded 3/16 x 40, you krick boiler was made in Germany, so has metric threads, if, indeed there is a bush to fit a gauge in the first place, and when I tried to get my example tested, the boiler tester refused to test it, due to the method of construction. Do you have a Wilesco dealer in the US, they will be a better source for a gauge for your boiler as they manufactured these boilers for Krick. You may, in the end, have to rely on the safety valve to indicate when the boiler has reached working pressure. There is a suitable pressure gauge here
http://www.ministeam.com/acatalog/Wilesco_Parts.html
A phone call to Ministeam will help to point you in the right direction.
Best of luck,
Regards,
Nick.

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Author Topic: Bought a new toy on Ebay, have some questions (Read 39104 times)