Topic: Italeri S100 Build Review (Read 70455 times)

Davew · « **Reply #50 on:** November 22, 2008, 01:20:48 pm »

Hi
got mine today from e models £89.99 plus £3.50 p/p I think its going to be Good kit to make ,
going to do r/c thinking to go brushless any ideas what ones and hwo many.
Thanks DaveW

gingyer · « **Reply #51 on:** November 22, 2008, 01:23:27 pm »

Oh stuff this I am away ti the model shop will report back soon

gingyer · « **Reply #52 on:** November 22, 2008, 02:30:21 pm »

don't arrive till mid-week

brockya · « **Reply #53 on:** November 22, 2008, 03:16:02 pm »

Well have stregthened the hull with Isopon P40, its a filler with chopped grass fiber strands mixed in, should be good and tough. The camo pattern I was thinking of was this from the German S Boats book, By Steve Wiper, published by Ship Craft, the photos are from a great diorama in it and as you see the line drawing doubts its use. Seems the real boat only had one steering rudder in the centre, the outer two are just for the Lurssen effect, already explain in earlier posts. How the model would perform with just one I dont know, maybe with a mixer would be the way to go,
Richard.

Del-boy1958 · « **Reply #54 on:** November 22, 2008, 03:49:17 pm »

Hi Guys
They had it in model zone in London at £99 but they have had
some faulty hull moldings the sides were waisted in and very very thin
and in a couple of cases broken through.
Those were sent back by the shop.
Be warned If you are buying this model check the hull.
It does look a nice model I will be getting one but not just yet.

Derek

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #55 on:** November 22, 2008, 03:56:41 pm »

Do you know, I saw this paint scheme / camouflage on a boat a couple of years ago, I thought the modeller had done a terrible job!
I stand corrected!

colin-stevens · « **Reply #56 on:** November 22, 2008, 06:59:34 pm »

richard, heres an idea on how to do the shafts.
glue the halves of the fairings together. put in vice.cut a lenghth of 4mm brass tube to the length of the hole in fairing, put it in fairing, do the same with the next size down. file teeth into the next size down. put in chuck of drill, insert into tubed fairing and turn on. very graduallly ream out the faring. repeat for each size. you now have a 4mm hole thru the fairing following the shaft line.
now glue to hull and repeat the procedure to finish the shaft line thru the hull. job done.
now all i have to do is wait for shafts to turn up and hope!
not sure how i am going to tackle the rudder/s yet. probably use the centre only, its quite large. sugestions?!

david5 · « **Reply #57 on:** November 22, 2008, 07:18:56 pm »

Just a thought on the motor setup on the s boats,i've done two in 1/24,but i found to use two motors the turning circle is too big,as the rudders are so small to use one centre motor it tended to rock from side to side but the turning was better,a mixer can slow it down on the turn,the best performing s boats i've seen have two props and two non scale rudders.
I left them on two main motors,one smaller centre motor with a micro switch, and scale rudders,but it means carrying more batteries,i'm thinking of going back and reworking them soon,to get them runnig better,they ran fine but not enough endurance for me.
David5

herrmill · « **Reply #58 on:** November 22, 2008, 10:04:12 pm »

Quote from: Martin - Forum Admin on November 22, 2008, 03:56:41 pm

Do you know, I saw this paint scheme / camouflage on a boat a couple of years ago, I thought the modeller had done a terrible job!
I stand corrected!

Martin,

Do you have any other photos of that mid-S38 version with jagged strip camo? I'm modding my TJ kit as a mid w/open bridge & looking for as many reference photos as I can find of other's work.

Thanks!

Chuck

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #59 on:** November 22, 2008, 10:26:03 pm »

I only have photos of the model.

herrmill · « **Reply #60 on:** November 22, 2008, 10:38:47 pm »

Martin,

That's what I'm looking for & have sent you an PM.

Chuck

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #61 on:** November 22, 2008, 11:38:44 pm »

brockya · « **Reply #62 on:** November 23, 2008, 11:03:54 am »

Hi Colin
Good idea about the shafts, looks good too, I thought of using two motors and putting two smallish, non scale rudders behind the props, see what ideas come up, thats the great thing about this site.
Richard.

colin-stevens · « **Reply #63 on:** November 23, 2008, 05:34:50 pm »

i've cocked up, line the fairings up to the skegs before fixing, i didnt. going to be fiddley to correct
defintly going to use the two outboard "rudders".
acess is a bit tight so i have cut out the "square" at the stern for access to the rudders

colin-stevens · « **Reply #64 on:** November 25, 2008, 06:47:56 pm »

shafts have arrived, unfortuntlly too short. plan is to lenghthen them with 3mm brass tube, slid and glued to the Graupner shaft. Mmmm!
cant think of another way to do it as i cant find a longer set up with a small enough diameter. any suggestions?

gingyer · « **Reply #65 on:** November 25, 2008, 10:00:10 pm »

colin
what is the sizes of your prop shaft

colin-stevens · « **Reply #66 on:** November 26, 2008, 08:09:13 am »

the shafts are graupner 2mmdia @210mm long. about the longest i can find. they do need to be long to get the motors as far forward as possible to give the clearence. hence lengthing with brass tube. could get round it by dumping the A-Frames and realigning the shafts at more of an angle but then i reckon too much power will go into it trying to fly.

Martin (Admin) · « **Reply #67 on:** November 26, 2008, 12:02:19 pm »

With such a long shaft in your S100, make sure it's well anchored all the way along it's length.
I've fitted a 2mm Graupner shaft to my Bbay Seven lifeboat.... it doesn't like a lot of power!
I'm using a Speed400 6v and with the 2mm shaft, it knocks a bit under load, bit like an old car engine "pinking!"

colin-stevens · « **Reply #68 on:** November 26, 2008, 01:39:12 pm »

yer, figured that will be a problem, but where i lenghthen it i will increase it to 3/4mm to stiffen it.
as i am using brushless i am excpecting a lot of revs, which wont help

brockya · « **Reply #69 on:** November 26, 2008, 03:55:23 pm »

Hi Colin.
I'm afraid I've done what you didn't want to do, realigned the shafts and lengthend the A frames, puts the motors into the cutout area of the deck, a lot nearer the stern than yours, used nine inch shafts that I had already. Have to save money somehow!!! Have to see how it goes, I live in the hope I haven't mucked it up!! time will tell.
Richard.

colin-stevens · « **Reply #70 on:** November 26, 2008, 06:36:54 pm »

will be interesring to see. at the end of the day its palstic so nuffing is permanent.
at the moment my shaft is 500mm long, Gulp. got to fing a way to shorten it, maybe put in an exta coupling to raisw the motor a bit, then the shaft will be shorter. not easy.
colin

gingyer · « **Reply #71 on:** November 26, 2008, 06:57:58 pm »

WOO HOO

I got mine today it is an amazing model

Colin I read a post on another site that the person had used a propshaft
with the plastic/nylon bearings and melted with the speed the brushless motors
ran at I noticed that you had these type of shafts thought I should mention

colin-stevens · « **Reply #72 on:** November 26, 2008, 08:13:22 pm »

naw, the graupner ones are a metal bushing,(or sure look like it) woulld never, ever use plasic bushings.
colin

gingyer · « **Reply #73 on:** November 26, 2008, 08:31:04 pm »

Quote from: colin-stevens on November 26, 2008, 08:13:22 pm

naw, the graupner ones are a metal bushing,(or sure look like it) woulld never, ever use plasic bushings.
colin

Sorry

colin-stevens · « **Reply #74 on:** November 26, 2008, 08:50:23 pm »

whatfor?

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Author Topic: Italeri S100 Build Review (Read 70455 times)

brockya

Del-boy1958

david5

brockya

brockya