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[SteamboatPhil]

Awesome Mark

[Mark T]

Hi Footski and Phil and thanks for you nice comments 


I carried on and made the parts for the ship now that I was happy with the prototype.  The hawse holes are set at 20 degrees.








Next they were fitted to the ship and the manger scuppers were finished too.  I have also given it a light coat of shellac sanding sealer on the planking just to give it a bit of protection.











My next job is to make a fit the forecastle deck beams - I think there is a small problem with the alignment of the bowsprit and making these beams will help me solve any issues


Cheers Mark

[Capt Podge]

What a brilliant solution in making the hawse hole cushions and to be honest, I can't recall ever seeing the like at all - great work Mark


Cheers,


Ray.

[Mark T]

Hi Ray - Yea to be honest it worked out ok.  I'll probably regret to remaking them at some point due to my error with the nails but hey ho 


Making the forecastle deck beams - I made one extra as I always damage one - and I did 








Then I cut them to length and placed them into their correct positions.  What I needed to see was the crown height of each beam and how they sat on the bowsprit partners.





I'm glad to say that I'm on the money with this one as each beam sat between 1.7mm and 1.4mm to high which gives me the depth of the dovetail joint into the deck clamps.  They also sit really nicely on the partners too.








So my next job is to make the deck shelf and get the dovetails all cut in and correct.


Cheers Mark 

[Mark T]

Hi All


More done on the beams - I made the beam shelves which reinforce the deck clamps and cut the dovetails in the beams.








Next was to cut the remaining notches in the beams and also make the slanted hatch hole that sits above the kitchen stove.





Then fit a fettle the beams to the correct overall height and also get good locations into the bowsprit partners.











Next I'm going to make the waterway for this deck which is going to be a challenge.  I then want to shake the build up a bit and get some details in such as the office, stove and windlass.


Cheers Mark 

[Mark T]

Hi All


Some more progress and this time its the forecastle deck waterways.


Here are a couple of pictures of me just trying to get a good fit with these parts onto the full and deck beams.  This is a bit tricky as the angle to the hull is changing throughout its length.  I've also learnt to leave plenty of extra wood on for shaping later.








And after much messing around here is the final piece which as you can see changes in thickness, angle and profile.











Here are all of the parts just dry assembled which have proven to me that all is correct now in this area of the ship.











So I can now put these parts away for the time being and get on with some more of the detailed parts.  Next up will be the windlass, small office, ships stove and some hatches.


Cheers Mark 

[Footski]

I love that last photo. I can almost imagine being stood on those beams, working on the ship... superb. Looking forward to all the bits and pieces. I remember enjoying making all those as it let me forget about the hull for a while.

[Mark T]

I love that last photo. I can almost imagine being stood on those beams, working on the ship... superb. Looking forward to all the bits and pieces. I remember enjoying making all those as it let me forget about the hull for a while.

You know I thought exactly the same I was really happy with that photo.  It also brought home to me what little protection the sailors had - they must have been such a tough bunch of people.

[Mark T]

Okay - The windlass - what a lovely piece of the ship this is 


So first of all I had to have a play with my rotary table to work out the indexing and this piece can be seen on the mill slide.  Once sorted I milled a hexagonal piece which again is made of 2 bits glued together as it's just over 18mm in diameter.





So looking at the drawings the taper of the windlass is 3 degrees and the pawl cut outs are set at 12 degrees back from the hexagonal facets.








I set the mill to cut the windlass taper and also roughed out the pawl cutouts.








I then revisited the pawl cuts and made them the correct size and also drilled the lever holes and cut the windlass bearings.











Now the problems begin as I cannot simply spin the part in the chuck as I could not grip the tapered surface.  I overcame this by making tapered inserts which I glued in place with PVA knowing that I can remove them later with IPA.





I then repeated the processes on the other end of the windlass.








Next was to make all of the round holes square but I forgot to take any pictures - sorry 


So finally I made the iron end rings out of brass and then chemically blackened them.





The final result which I think is really nice 











So next I have to make the windlass supports


Cheers Mark 

[derekwarner]

Ahah....now I know where that olde saying comes from Mark.......


'Ya canno fit a squart peg in ya rounde a hol'


Looking forward to seeing the rounde drm in the stocks


Derek

[Mark T]

Ahah....now I know where that olde saying comes from Mark.......


'Ya canno fit a squart peg in ya rounde a hol'


Looking forward to seeing the rounde drm in the stocks


Derek

Hi Derek I never thought of that but I think you may be right     Would you believe that actually making the holes square and as uniform as possible was by far the hardest thing to do on this part.  You can't machine square holes it's got to be done by hand and eye.  I'll get the stocks built as soon as I can 

[Mark T]

Hi All


Some more done on the windlass - This time I've made the Carrick piece (the larger part) and the cheek.  Firstly though I wanted to make the large bolts that run all the way through them.  To do this I had to drill a 0.68mm hole in a 1.5mm brass rod.  The picture below looks like I'm drilling a 6mm hole through a 10mm bar 





A bit of perspective





The bolts were finished with a tapered 0.8mm rod and then chemically blackened.





I didn't take any pictures of the making of the Carrick piece or the cheek as its pretty straight forward but I did of the drilling for the bolts.  I lightly glued the 2 parts together and drilled straight through in one go.  The parts were separated later with IPA.





The finished parts with the bolts in place.








Finally a few shots of the parts in place on the hull.  Nothing is glued in yet including the beams so it's just a simple dry fit.











So thats it for a couple of weeks as I've got to have a quick surgery (nothing major) but I've been told that it will restrict my lifting and movement for a while.  So as soon as I can I'll be back at it.


Cheers Mark 

[Footski]

Don't leave us for too long, we will be getting withdrawal symptoms

[Mark T]

Don't leave us for too long, we will be getting withdrawal symptoms

Hi Footski it's something I've been putting off for far too long.  I saw the picture of your build of Victory - wow - Now if I could do that I would be very happy; what a beautiful ship it must have taken you so many hours.  I can see why it was an award winning build as it it is simply perfection 

[Footski]

Mark,
Thank you for your kind words. The model took three years to complete, using many photos I took of the real ship, Following a special visit which allowed me access to many places the public could not get to at the time. Simply rigging her took just over a year.
Whilst I strived for the model to be as accurate as possible, paint hides a multitude of sins and the skill level is very low compared to your workmanship.
Come back soon.

[Mark T]

Ok last one from me     I couldn't resist making the windlass handle.  It's a simple square to round which is also tapered.  I don't have a lathe so I had to wing it but I'm happy with the result.  I also like the way I can put it in any of the holes in the windlass.











Sorry for the poor picture quality - Mark 

[derekwarner]

Mark......

Good luck with your 'minor surgery'.........the Le Rochefort will be waiting for your return

regards Derek

[Mark T]

Thanks Derek - I'll be in and out in a day but they have said I can't lift anything for about a week and then need 3 weeks of rest after that................so once I can lift things I'll have loads of time to get on with her. As they say every cloud has a silver lining 

[Mark T]

Hi All


Well I've been repaired but I just have to take it easy for a few weeks - but that doesn't mean that I can't build my ship 


So onto the ships stove and later on the small office.  Firstly both of these parts require a bit of deck underneath them so I made the deck as it should have been had I have completely planked it.  The stove also gets some sheet metal to stand on.








The stove starts as a simple box with 4 legs





Which then gets lined with bricks which I bought online at 1/24th scale.








The bricks are held in place with an iron cage - I cut the brass strips on the table saw the dimensions being 0.25mm x 1.2mm.  I then made a plug to help build and solder the cage together.
































And to finish the stove the brass parts were chemically blackened; the lower bricks were installed; the lifting rings made; the nails inserted and my favourite bit the grill bars which are imbedded into the bricks.  If you can work out how I did this let me know 














I've still to make the pieces that help lock it in place on the deck but at least I'm moving forward again!


Cheers Mark

[dougal99]

Lovely work.

[SteamboatPhil]

WoW (young people speak according to my granddaughters) great work Mark, and no I can't figure how you did it....more looking and better glasses....

[Mark T]

Hi Dougal and Phil     Thanks for the nice comments lads - to put the bars in I simply drilled straight through from the side you cannot see.  I then filled the holes with tree nails so the only trickery was not being quite honest with my photos 





I've now made the feet for the stove so its completely finished now.








I've also made the hatch for the main deck - I really like making these as the design of them just lets them simply lock together and are so strong.








Cheers Mark

[Mark T]

Ok some more done this time it's the small office/cupboard.  It's a very simple design with brass hinges and lock.  It's easy to make but tricky to get a good fit due to the many angles that come together.

















So now I need to bring all of these parts together and also complete some of the details that I've missed


Mark

[Mark T]

Hi All


Before putting all of the parts permanently on the ship I first just had to complete some nailing that I had missed and also make the decorative rail that covers the last beam.


Clamping the rail in place 





Then it was just a case of fit everything and have a good tidy up.  I think its all turned out ok




















So next I think its about time I finished off the planking of the hull


Cheers Mark

[Footski]

Wow.......coming together superbly...