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[HS93 (RIP)]

you said you could not get glue in the first section how about drilling a small hole on top and filling a syringe with glue (may need to be thinned a bit ) and squeeze it in .

Peter

[Martin (Admin)]

Drill a hole in my pride a joy?!?!?  You're talking crazy man! 

Might use "Super 'Phatic" that's very thin.
I'll have a think about that over the weekend...
Martin

you said you could not get glue in the first section how about drilling a small hole on top and filling a syringe with glue (may need to be thinned a bit ) and squeeze it in .

Peter

[HS93 (RIP)]

only needs to be small

Peter

[Voyager]

I think i would have given up on this long ago if i was doing it Nice to see someone stick to it!!! (No puns intended!)

From someone who's never worked with wood before What's the reason for sealing it from the inside, I've often seen people coat the wood on the outside with sanding sealer or waterproof PVA? Better still would someone please start a thread on how best to work with wood, what's the best wood to work with, how best to treat the wood, what varnish to use, would be helpful to us newbies like myself who have always fancied the challenge but are frightend of all the unknowns

Keep up the good work Martin...were all watching with interest

[mark_1984]

Tongue in cheeck comment about sealing, but how much sealing do you really need to do ?
How much sealer is applied to the inside of a barrel 

[Down below]

I think the Amati idea of the gauze is that once it is dry it will hold the 1st planking secure whilst we merrily sand away the 1st planking on the outside, some how I dont think gauze will stop any leaks ...... surely its simply the PVA part that does that ::)

For peace of mind a coat of Glattfix on the outer skin after the 2nd planking would be a very good idea

[Down below]

This must without doubt be the case as Amati advise the PVA & Gauze method in issue 18 for both versions of this model (static display & RC), why else would you want to go to all the hassle of applying PVA & Gauze to the inner hull of a static dispaly model if the gauze was not for keeping the planking secure....it just happens that the PVA applied also does a sealing job (hopefully) for the RC version, though they are daft enough not to mention that the PVA should be a waterproof type

[HS93 (RIP)]

Martin are you going to fit the plastic bits before you put the second layer of planks on ,that way you can plank up to the plastic bits.

Peter

[Martin (Admin)]

Hi Peter,

Apparently the stern piece to not quite correct, something to do with someone forgetting to allow for the second layer of planking, there is a fix in a later issue......  :-\

Picture of the PVA interior later today.... 

[HS93 (RIP)]

Depending on what there fix is . it may be a help as you could run the planks on to it about Half an inch  (15mm) and then fair it in , that would hold it  and make it a good solid job and reduce the amount of it showing.

Peter

[Down below]

HS93, its not the stern part shown that has the problem, it is the other stern resin part No.70.

Martin - The problem had nothing to do with 2nd planking it is to do with the original resin part (#70 in iss 23) having an inaccurate anchor recess, the new version of this stern resin part comes in 35, there is an insert note in 21 re this and the options

[HS93 (RIP)]

That looks good Martin , definitely better than the bandage..

Peter

[colin-stevens]

very neat. can i borrow youre painter? looks like he is a tidy and clevre worker. what are his hourly rates?
nice one
colin

[Captain Povey]

Hi all, Well crude modeller that I am I squirted some old 'no nails' that I had kicking around in the shed all around the inside of the St Canute on the principle that I had previously used it to glue a brick to the concrete floor of the rifle range and it is still there despite the floods so I assumed it was filling the gaps, was waterproof and strong. Cheers Graham  :)

[Down below]

Martin might I suggest using this PVA . Have used it in 1:1 boat construction.

UniBond Super PVA Adhesive & Sealer
 
Safe & Simple to use, UniBond Super PVA Adhesive & Sealer is the toughest, fastest, strongest and longest lasting PVA you can buy.

 
 
Use UniBond Super PVA for
 
· Bonding
· Woodworking
· Hobbies & Crafts
· General Repair
· Priming Old Porous or Dusty Surfaces
· Priming Gloss Paint to Take Wallpaper
· Stiffening Fabrics

 
 
Available in following sizes
 
· 250ml Tin
· 500ml Tin
· 1ltr Can
· 2.5ltr Can
· 4lt Jerry Can
· 5ltr Can

 
Apply one coat to wood. When tacky apply fabric then recoat with PVA.

http://www.makingdiyeasier.co.uk/unibond/pdf/pva.pdf

FYI and anyone else who has bought this stuff

I saw this stuff in B&Q this morning which on reading the tin set alarm bells ringing as you later posted it was waterproof, Unibond Super PVA adhesive & sealer is NOT waterproof, it does not suggest this on the tin nor on there tech sheet.

I noted the tech services number and gave them a call, they also confirm it is not waterproof saying it will degrade on water contact even when dry, check it out for yourself 01606 593933 :)

Are you sure you dont mean Unibond Exterior PVA Wood Glue as per what Martin has used?

[gerrybuilt]

Hi Builders,

Thanks for all the suggestions for getting sealing compound  (of some sort) into the extreme forward compartments.
 Whilst reading your ideas, I suddenly thought, Why not drill into the forward bulkhead, and into the next from the front end.

 I would need to make two holes, one either side of the transverse bulkhead. I could inject sealer therein with a hypodermic I used to refill my printer cartridges with.

 Problem solved because the drill holes will be covered when the resin bow part is attached.

What do you think?

Gerry

Please tell me how to get an emoticon in my posts!!

[Martin (Admin)]

Hi Gerry,
I drilled a couple of holes ave used "Super 'Phatic'" (thin sticky PVA) in the 4 bow compartments..... just do what HS93 says! 

[Harold Waters]

Martin are you going to fit the plastic bits before you put the second layer of planks on ,that way you can plank up to the plastic bits.

Peter

:( :(I am a new member 2nd oct logged in for the first time.  Harold Waters, was a submariner been retired since 1983.  I do not know how to make my first contribution so I just used the above quote to send my message. I am so dissapointed with Bismarck.  I was always able to finish in 3 weeks four issues.  But the latest issues 28th Sept arrived were completed by 1st oct.  They were an insult. Even though retired I have a very busy life, I was not sat at the model allday.  So I have cancelled.  It took a long time for me to speak to Hatchette there was a long queue I WONDER WHY? Cheers Muddy >:(

[Down below]

Its a shame your first post is in disappointment :'(

in defence of Hachette, this is a partwork model so it builds very different to any kit you may likley have come across in the past and at times the build is frustrating.

I dont think the weekly magazine is designed to keep you busy for the day, though having said that certain issues will keep you busy such as the planking, it simply varies from issue to issue.

As for contacting Hachette, when you phone it is actually a call centre who like most call centres tend to take calls on behalf of a number of companies hence the usual wait especially at peak times of the day.

There is no point in sounding off at the call centre if you are unhappy with the series as I doubt it ever gets back to Hachette themselves, the best way is to either write or phone Hachette direct at there London office, feedback is always a good thing be it good or bad as it is how things might get changed for the future, there address is noted on the inside front cover of the 1st page

My personal opinion is that the Amati design & build for this model beggars belief in many ways and has put me off buying any further Amati kits, I plan to see this series thru to its end but as for being tempted by the Amati name in future then forget it ::)

[cbr900]

It would seem that the Australian supplier is not much better than Hachettes (Gordon and Gotch), I ordered this model 6 weeks ago and as yet have still not received the first issue, one would think these companies would get there acts together and process orders promtly, and at least start off by trying to satisfy customers, but I will stick it out and wait and complain.............



Roy

[Brian1960clock]

It would seem that the Australian supplier is not much better than Hachettes (Gordon and Gotch), I ordered this model 6 weeks ago and as yet have still not received the first issue, one would think these companies would get there acts together and process orders promtly, and at least start off by trying to satisfy customers, but I will stick it out and wait and complain.............



Roy

Hello all,

           I'm an Australian modeller that subscribed to Bismarck 4 weeks ago. I received edition 2 and 3 but was informed that edition 1 is out of stock. The Australian distributor receives monthly editions from the U.K. then does a mail out. I requested any editions that were available, as I'm keen to get cracking, however they only have in stock what's been posted to me.
As to previous comments about the quality of Amati models, I have built H.M.S. Bounty and found the kit contents first class.
I am excited about the Bismarck project as any kit fittings not satisfactory to me will be scratch made. I'm sure most modellers enjoy adding scratch items and improving the model.

                Kindest regards  Brian from Australia.

[Down below]

Brian you have misssed one key point, this model has been advertised as "being of museum quality distinguishing itself through its attention to detail and accuracy"

So there should be no need to add, change or modify parts, but you are about to find that this kit will meet your wildest desires if you are a scratch builder as there is a lot to put right when it comes to accuracy let alone its buld.

I have bought previous Amati kits and they have been fine, the difference with this kit is that it is a partwork version which for some reason seems to have lots of things that lets say raises the eyebrows, simply visit the german Bisarck web forums for a low down on what they think about the kit!

Even there previous Titanic partwork had its problems that has been widely noted.

[colin-stevens]

if i were you i would update youre assistants contract, make it watertight so that no one else can head hunt him away from you. he is obviosly worth his weight in gold.
stirling stuff
colin

[gerrybuilt]

Hi Gerry,
I drilled a couple of holes ave used "Super 'Phatic'" (thin sticky PVA) in the 4 bow compartments..... just do what HS93 says! 

Memo: The First Sea Lord
From: Able seaman Gerrybuilt.

Thank you you Grace, for your advice.

 However, I have glued the forward deck in place and would need to drill into the deck to get some sealing compound into the afforementioned compartments. I believe, upon mature reflection, that this may be the best way to go, rather than my previous suggestion. The forward bulkhead is too narrow to disturb with drilling.
I am grateful for your Lordships advice and guidance.

Yours,

Gerry 

[Martin (Admin)]

My build updated. HERE      


Martin.